Plowing the vineyard
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French wine industry battle

Olivier Cousin plows his vineyard, using his horse, Romeo. The horse enables Cousin to limit pollution and doesn’t pack in the soil the way tractors can. (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)
Frenchman Olivier Cousin makes “natural” wines with grapes grown organically, and no chemicals or other additives are used at any point in the winemaking process. (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)
Olivier Cousin, in his vineyard, shows a class of children how to use a plow horse. (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)
In his cellar, Olivier Cousin tastes his “natural” wines. He has been officially notified that he faces a fine of $50,000 for putting the name of his region, Anjou, on his bottles. (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)
Artisanal winemaker Dominique Leandre-Chevalier inspects his vineyard in Bordeaux’s Blaye region. He says the careful work he does on his small vineyard is more like gardening than raising crops. (Devorah Lauter / For The Times)