Guys' night in

Matthew Lane, standing, gives an introduction on wines during movie director Jef Levy's guys night at his Laurel Canyon home, Monday evening in Los Angeles. Lane's title is, "Manager of Wine Education, The Americas." (Richard Hartog / LAT)

Consider it more than a coincidence. Two identical silver Mercedes SL 55 AMGs sit side by side in the Zen-inspired courtyard of Jefery Levy's glass and steel 1960s house in Laurel Canyon. One belongs to Levy, a collector of rare wines, the other to Japanese chef Kazu, the proprietor of an eponymous gem of a restaurant on Ventura Boulevard. Great connoisseurs think alike.


Tonight, Kazu's formidable culinary skills will complement Levy's equally formidable collection of one of the world's most coveted wines — Australia's Penfolds Grange — that has taken him nearly a decade to assemble.

Levy, a screenwriter and director ("Inside Monkey Zetterland" and "S.F.W.") is host to about three wine tastings a year, events he's dubbed "guys' nights." They typically involve a dozen or so men, a couple of bottles of outrageously good whites followed by some serious reds, steak supplied by Harvey Gus, the butcher who services Spago and Campanile, and chasers of Cuban cigars. Levy's wife, Pamela Skaist Levy, co-founder of the casual fashion house Juicy Couture, usually takes refuge upstairs.

"There's a core group, a finite number of wine collectors in L.A.," says Levy, listing among them a few of his guests: TV and movie producer Stephen Gelber (CBS' "Fargo"); writer-producer-director James Orr ("Father of the Bride"); cinematographer John Schwartzman ("Seabiscuit"), nephew of director and vintner Francis Ford Coppola; and the former chairman of Capitol-EMI Joe Smith, who's a member of L.A.'s oldest ongoing wine group, WOW (Wines of the World).

Despite the sophisticated, often rarefied context, a gentlemen's wine tasting is not that far removed from a spectator sports gathering, inspiring the same raucous enthusiasm as a slam dunk by Shaq or a home run by Shawn Green.

"It can be a more cerebral and solitary pastime but it's also a sensual and visceral experience. Girls fetishize clothing and shoes. Wine is a more immediate form of gratification for guys," says Levy. At the moment, however, he is enjoying no such immediate gratification, being far too preoccupied with inspecting 500 rented goblets and flutes set out on the two interior courtyards that are part of his H-shaped abode.

With the help of Smith's son Jeff, who designs wine cellars, Levy tackles the tedious business of labeling each glass according to the vintage that will be sipped therein.

Tonight is Levy's most extravagant production to date, a vertical tasting of the iconic Aussie Penfolds wines — Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay from 1995 through 2000, then the extraordinary Penfolds Grange from 1990 through 1998. When the '98 (described as "absolute perfection" by critic Robert Parker) was released in May 2003, collectors bought up the fewer than 9,000 cases in a frenzied rush. Within a month, the price shot up to more than $400 a bottle.

Levy's home, built by an obscure industrial architect, Boulder Thorgusson, looks primed for the occasion. Shrouded by greenery, it seems purposely hidden from casual passersby. Once inside, however, the open-plan structure — in keeping with the era in which it was built — has a striking, though hardly private, visual flow.

Constructed almost exclusively of glass with wood and steel support beams, the house affords unobstructed views from room to room — an effect akin to viewing a split-screen TV.

From the courtyard deck, Levy and Smith have a straight view into the kitchen, where chef Kazu is wielding a perilous sashimi knife. "I haven't cut myself in some years," he assures as he slivers monkfish liver, or ankimo, a traditional Japanese appetizer.

The two men also have a perfect sightline into the living room, separated from the kitchen by a granite-and-wood cocktail bar. Matt Lane, a wine expert from Penfolds, is decompressing on the white leather Minotti sofa, but from time to time he peruses notes from Parker's reviews, which granted Grange's '98 a near perfect 99 rating, one echoed by the other unparalleled arbiter, the Wine Spectator.

"There are only a handful of Grange collections such as Jef's, and to open his private cellar like this is unique," says Lane, who has brought with him a bottle of Great Grandfather, the tawny port that Penfolds' founder, an English doctor, originally made for medicinal purposes.

Later in the evening, Gelber seconds Lane's assessment of Levy's magnanimous gesture. "The compulsion to own something that is very rare yet can be consumed drives many into the game of hoarding collectible trophy wines," he explains. "Sometimes that very compulsion precludes sharing, or even drinking their treasures. I derive the greatest pleasures in sharing my wines with family and friends. Wine opens your senses and gives you a greater appreciation of other exquisite and ephemeral things."

As a couple, the Levys throw more traditional dinner parties, with takeout from some of their favorite restaurants — India's Oven, the Ivy and Ca'Brea. Tonight, Pamela is off to a movie theater with her business partner, Gela Nash Taylor, and costume designer Susan Becker. Taylor's husband, John Taylor, drummer for Duran Duran, and Susan's husband, Harold Becker, director of such movies as "Domestic Disturbance" and "Sea of Love," will be at Levy's tasting.

Levy is left to see to the intricate preparation of this mother-of-all guys' nights, and he's had the foresight to hire servers along with Kazu and his trusty staff. Twenty-plus friends are expected, a concoction of regular connoisseurs with a few neophytes and a handful of actors such as Stephen Dorff and Robert Davi thrown in for good measure. "Whomever I'm working with at the time," explains Levy. He's just wrapped the indie film "Man of God," starring Peter Weller and Nikki Reed ("Thirteen"), which he hopes to premiere at the Venice Film Festival in September. (Levy's first film, "Drive," won the International Critics Award at the 1991 festival, and his third, "S.F.W." was in the competition at the 1995 festival.)

Levy disappears upstairs to change and returns wearing the same black jeans and short-sleeve shirt. "I was going to put on a suit, but I have too much work to do," he says cheerfully.

He has already spent the day running to the Beverly Hills Cheese Store and to his humidor at the Grand Havana Room, and he's decanted the wines twice. They've now been open 24 hours, something that normal wines wouldn't tolerate. "These wines are so big you can't get your arms around them. They have to be open that long," Jeff Smith explains.

The house is now aglow like a glamorous light box, with the lap pool glistening in the distance. Guests start to amble in. "I called it for 7 but you know how people can be in L.A," says Levy, putting Miles Davis on the CD player. Pretty soon the house is awash in men tricked out in what must be the guys' night regulation attire — dark slacks, black turtleneck and black leather jacket. A few others have broken rank and donned slick suits and ties. In general, though, says Levy, "a taste for fine wine frequently does not go hand in hand with good fashion sense. In fact, quite the opposite."