The Stocking Frame bar: Take refuge, have a drink

Name of restaurant: The Stocking Frame — the name is a nod to its location inside a gutted garment factory. A stocking frame is a mechanical knitting machine invented in England in the 16th century.

Concept: The owners call it a bar and refuge, and it is both. The refuge part is the wonderfully industrial exposed brick space with stacks of firewood and lodge accents, like antlers. But it hasn’t quite grown into its optimistically cavernous space with its multi-bars and 7,000 square feet.

Chef: Its claim is that there is no head chef, but rather the kitchen works by collaboration.

PHOTOS: Inside Stocking Frame

Follow the money: Co-owned by Jerry Aschoff, the owner of Lola Gaspar, the popular small-plates tavern in Santa Ana.

What dish represents the restaurant, and why? Since its quiet opening late summer, the kitchen hasn’t really nailed a signature dish yet. The limited menu changes weekly, but they tout their pizzas crisped in their 900-degree wood-burning oven. Most of the menu items were sophomoric efforts, at best. We’re hoping they get their kitchen legs soon. Right now, their cocktail and drink side of the menu weights heavier than the food side.

Who’s at the next table? Urban hipsters who live and work downtown sip craft brews while having subdued conversations.

Appropriate for ... after-work nosh and drinks with co-workers.

Uh-oh ... Parking is difficult as it is all over downtown. Valet parking is available on Friday and Saturday nights. There are meters, but your best bet might be a nearby lot, to avoid running back and forth to feed the meter.

Service ... is youthful, energetic, attentive and friendly — about all you can ask for in a neighborhood bar.

What are you drinking? A bottle of a craft ale or one of the signature cocktails.

Info: 911 S. Hill St., Los Angeles, (213) 488-0373, www.thestockingframe.com.

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The Scouting Report is a quick look at restaurants worth a visit. Scouts were selected by restaurant critic Jonathan Gold, who may or may not agree with a single word.