Jonathan Gold reviews Kali

Restaurant patrons dine at Kali.   (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times )

The exterior of Kali in Los Angeles.

The beet tartar with mustard greens, almond and preserved lemon at Kali Restaurant.   (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times )

Not-at-all small plates of food served are at Kali Restaurant.   (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times )

Server Theodore Harb polishes wine glasses on the bar at Kali.

Arthur Rieman, left, Gary Barr, Ruth Gilliland and Joy Barr dine at Kali.

Trees made of wire line a windowsill at Kali.

Kevin Meehan, chef and co-owner, at Kali Restaurant.

Duck breast with carrots, honey and lavender is one of the dishes on the menu at Kali.

Some of the wine offerings at Kali Restaurant.

Risotto with black garlic and toasted cheese at Kali.