Counter Intelligence: Mo-Chica

Lunchtime is casual at the sleekly modern Mo-Chica.  (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Lomo Saltado made with sauteed filet mignon, Roma tomatoes, red onions, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, banyuls vinegar and Kennebec fries.  (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

The hamburguesa made with an alpaca-and-lamb patty, pickled cucumbers, avocado and aji amarillo yogurt dressing.  (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Sahil Chaudry is handed his dish of quinotto, a quinoa risotto with wild mushrooms, Parmesan and parsley-infused oil.  (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Suzy Franco, a bartender at Mo-Chica restaurant, puts the finishing touches on a mojito.  (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Daily specials are posted on construction-paper signs hung over the counter area.   (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Tiradito de Jurel (Spanish mackerel tiradito, ginger amarillo sauce, garlic chips and sesame oil).  (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Picarones made with sweet potato, kabocha Peruvian beignets, star anise, cloves, cinnamon and chancaca sauce  (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Ricardo Zarate, co-owner and chef of Mo-Chica, prepares lomo saltado.  (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)