Some 30 years after
The purists' choice. Bez Compani is so devoted to his dough that he doesn't let anybody else touch it — or the sourdough mother he saves back to feed the next day's dough. Compani, an Iranian who was raised in London and trained in pizza in Naples, turns out classic Neapolitan pizza from a massive wood-burning oven at the back of this bare-bones Los Feliz space. The oven works at such a high temperature that pizzas — just a half dozen are on offer — cook in about a minute. Margherita is perfection with pools of molten bufala mozzarella (the only type he uses), San Marzano tomato sauce and a few heroic leaves of basil. Another made with oven-roasted vine tomatoes is fabulous with the bufala. His zucchini pie is a good bet too. Just don't expect much in the way of antipasti or sides. At Mother Dough, it's pizza all the way.
4648 Hollywood Blvd. (near Vermont Avenue), Los Feliz, (323) 644-2885, http://www.motherdoughpizza.com. Pizzas, $15 to $19. Closed Mondays.
Giuseppe Musso sold his stake in Amarone on Sunset Strip and opened this Koreatown Italian (not to be confused with the now-shuttered al'Angelo) a year or so ago. Like
4050 W. 3rd St. (at South Ardmore Avenue), Koreatown, (213) 368-7888, http://www.allangolopizza.com. Pizzas, $7 to $16.
Here's one pizzeria that has appealing antipasti: fire-roasted shishito peppers, a mix of olives marinated in garlic and fresh herbs, and a fine baby spinach salad with feta and roasted grapes. Owner and chef Brad Kent ferments his dough slowly for maximum flavor and bakes it in an oven fired with olive and almond wood. His pies are thin-crusted and crisp. I love the "Margherita plus," made with creamy fresh burrata embroidered with basil-infused olive oil. I'm also partial to the eggplant Parmesan pizza. If you like truffled cheese, get the wild mushroom and crispy prosciutto pizza. The mushrooms are meaty pieces of porcini. The more unconventional "Hawaiian" pie makes its mark with fresh roasted pineapple and smoked ham from Italy's Alto Adige. And for dessert, you can't beat the warm apple crisp from the wood-burning oven. The fact that you can enjoy your pizza outside at a handful of sidewalk tables is another plus.
8075 W. 3rd St. (at Crescent Heights Boulevard), Los Angeles, (323) 930-9490, http://www.pizzeriaolio.com. Pizzas, $11 to $16.