Tall stools are lined up at a counter in front of a picture window onto the street scene of 6th Street, near Broadway, in downtown Los Angeles. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
A three kabob chicken plate is $10. It comes with rice, salad and homemade hummus. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Alex Tobia makes his own baklava, with honey, cinnamon and nuts in flaky sheaths of phyllo. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
The modern restaurant in the warehouse district at the southeast edge of downtown serves contemplative dishes, including these chicken enchiladas in mole. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Alfonso Herrera shakes up a cocktail at the bar. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Shrimp enchiladas are served with a yellow mole and rice. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Dan Fernandez, left, and Ben Garcia dine at Yxta Cocina Mexicana. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Yxta Cocina Mexicana is on Central Avenue at 6th Street, amid warehouses and industrial buildings downtown. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Customers jam the front of the Tacos Tumbras a Tomas stall inside the Grand Central Market on Broadway. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
The stuffed Torta Cubano goes for $6.50. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
Tomas Martinez, who with his brother Manuel runs Tacos Tumbras a Tomas, presides over a busy counter, where the specialty is Michoacan-style carnitas. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
