Brian Huynh, owner of Huynh Restaurant in Little Saigon, says he loved working in his spare time at Ha-Noi with his aunt and uncle when he had a job in banking. (Katie Falkenberg / For The Times)
The Hanoi fried spring roll is a pillow-like square filled with shredded crab, pork, mushrooms and bean thread. (Katie Falkenberg / For The Times)
The banh tom co ngu, also known as shrimp doughnuts, is matchstick-cut sweet pototoes fried in tempura bundles with crispy whole shrimp. (Katie Falkenberg / For The Times)
Water spinach is sauteed with garlic, bean curd or shrimp paste. (Katie Falkenberg / For The Times)
Huynh has a cheery, Minimalist dining room with sunny yellow walls adorned with decorative Vietnamese souvenir art. (Katie Falkenberg / For The Times)
The catfish soup is made with noodles, fresh dill and celery. (Katie Falkenberg / For The Times)
The ca kho to is catfish simmered in a mahogany-colored carmelized fish sauce. (Katie Falkenberg / For The Times)
