Is there no thrill to the grill? Try planking your food.

If you find yourself ignoring your grill more than you should, living as we do in this land of permanent grilling, maybe you’ve just had your fill of cooking all those hamburgers and barbecued chicken over gas or charcoal. Maybe you should consider doing your grilling with actual slabs of wood instead. This is planking, the method of cooking directly on a thin slab of hardwood, and it’s a technique that Native Americans in the Pacific Northwest have used for centuries. Planking infuses food with a wood’s characteristic flavor and aroma while retaining natural juices and protecting that food from burning. It’s also pretty fun to do, as long as you consider a few basics.

Choosing a wood

Cedar: The fragrant wood is most often used to cook salmon, but it also deepens the flavor of other fish, along with chicken and vegetables, particularly asparagus (as it’s hard to cook on a grill). Match with: marinades containing soy sauce and maple syrup or dry rubs with ginger, garlic and brown sugar.

Alder wood: This does well with trout, halibut, shrimp and scallops, as the milder wood doesn’t overpower the seafood. (It’s also good for fruit.) Match with: thyme, parsley, dill and lemon.

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Hickory or mesquite: As practioners of barbecue know well, hickory and mesquite pair really well with beef and pork, as well as heartier vegetables such as Portobello mushrooms. Match with: cayenne, paprika, whole grain mustard, rosemary.

Cherry or apple wood: These two fruit woods enrich pork, chicken, duck, even Brussels sprouts. Match with: balsamic vinegar, crushed peppercorns.

Planking 101

Where to buy: Grocery stores, gourmet shops and online. Lowe’s and Home Depot also sell grilling planks. Watch out for chemically treated builder’s lumber, which is toxic.

Before you grill: To prevent burning, soak the plank in water for at least two hours and as long as overnight before using. You can fill a 2-inch-deep rectangular baking pan with water and weigh the plank down with a heavy jar. For added flavor, beer, wine or herbs can be added to the soaking water. Dry the plank, brush on a little olive oil, then place food directly on the wood.

Toasting your plank: Toast a plank on a hot covered grill for two to five minutes per side to intensify its flavor. When you hear the plank begin to pop or crackle, it’s ready for your food.

Planking on a gas grill: Preheat the grill to 400 degrees, then turn off half the burners and place the plank over the unlit burners. Cook covered.

Planking on a charcoal grill: Place the lit charcoal on one side of the grill, leaving space for the plank on the other side, without the charcoal. Cook covered.

No need to flip: It’s not necessary to flip the food or the plank, but keep a spray bottle of water handy for flare-ups.

Reusing planks: Planks can be reused after washing, provided they’re not burned. You can also pre-soak planks and store them in the freezer, labeled with the wood type.

food@latimes.com