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Wine of the Week: 2006 Pio Cesare Barolo

When looking for a special bottle to bring to a dinner party, you can't go wrong with a Barolo — unless, that is, the main course is fish. But for anything else, especially braised meats or roasts, a Barolo can hold its own with the best of

California

, France or Australia.

This one comes from the grand old house of Pio Cesare, founded way back in 1881, one of the first to bottle in Piedmont,

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Italy
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. The firm is now run by Cesare's great-grandson Pio Boffa. It's a fine example of classic Barolo and at a very good price for the quality. Fresh and round, it has a chiseled structure and wonderful balance. No need to wait on this one unless you want to: It's drinking beautifully now, superb with a roast duck or

brasato

(beef braised in red wine).

Region:

Piedmont, Italy

Price:

$47 to $57

Style:

Classic

What it goes with:

Roast duck, braised short ribs, roasts

Where to find it:

Amazing Grapes Wine Store in Rancho Santa Margarita, (949) 888-9463,

http://www.amazinggrapeswinestore.com

; Green Jug in Woodland Hills, (818) 887-9463,

http://www.greenjug.com

; K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463,

http://www.klwines.com

; Los Angeles Wine Co. in Los Angeles, (800) 854-8466 and Palm Desert (760) 346-1763; Mel & Rose Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (323) 655-5557,

http://www.melandrose.com

; Wally's Wine & Spirits in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606,

http://www.wallywine.com

; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454,

http://www.winex.com

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