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2008 Botani Sierras de Malaga Moscatel Seco

Who would have thunk? A dry Muscat from Malaga in southern Spain, better known for its luscious sweet wines? And yet Spanish wine importer Jorge Ordoñez and the late, great sweet wine producer Alois Kracher had the idea to try making a little dry wine from the old Muscat vineyard Ordoñez located in the mountains outside the city.

This, the third vintage of Botani Sierras de Málaga Moscatel Seco, is a perfect summer aperitif wine. Wonderfully aromatic, it carries a scent of tropical fruit and flowers that makes you want to dive into the glass. In the mouth, it's silky and ripe, but dry as can be, making it a great food wine as well.

Open a well-chilled bottle for a chilled seafood platter, a bowl of steamed mussels and clams, or a composed salad.

-- S. Irene Virbila

Region: Malaga, Spain

Price: About $23

Style: Rich and spicy, but bone dry

What it goes with: Chilled seafood, steamed mussels and clams, lobster, salads

Where to find it: Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, www.mission; Wally's Wine & Spirits in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606, www.wallywine; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, www

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