Review: Charlie Palmer South Coast Plaza Costa Mesa

Artisan Salumi Santana, with a rustic pâté, Dijon and country bread. Green beans and pickles complete the mix of textures and flavors.  (Karen Tapia-Andersen / Los Angeles Times)

Who can resist a heaping pile of crisp french fries and the accompanying dip — a blistering and highly addictive chipotle aioli?  (Karen Tapia-Andersen / Los Angeles Times)

For starters, there’s the crisp pork belly with melon, pickled onion and aged sherry vinegar. To complete the course, pair it with a nice red.  (Karen Tapia-Andersen / Los Angeles Times)

The dining room at Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale’s South Coast Plaza has a spacious and luxe feel.  (Karen Tapia-Andersen / Los Angeles Times)

Unusual reflections and light add interest to the dining room at Charlie Palmer’s latest addition to his restaurant empire.  (Karen Tapia-Andersen / Los Angeles Times)

A large photo of wild horses lightens the tone in the bar area of the restaurant. Oh, and the bartender makes a perfect Manhattan.  (Karen Tapia-Andersen / Los Angeles Times)

Step into the glassed-in wine room to choose a bottle or two from the traditional bound list or from the novel electronic flat panel that allows you to search by vintage or varietal or region.  (Karen Tapia-Andersen / Los Angeles Times)

A bird’s-eye view of the glassed-in wine room, part of the Next Vintage Wine Shop off the bar. Prices are reasonable for the wines on offer and, because it functions as the restaurant’s wine list, the shop is able to stock some unusual, highly allocated bottles as well.  (Karen Tapia-Andersen / Los Angeles Times)