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Newsletter: Counter: On the road with a restaurant guy, plus lotsa breakfast

Restaurateur Jeremy Fall, outside Tinfoil, his liquor store and deli in Highland Park.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
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If you had any residual questions about the importance of breakfast, or maybe the importance of that meal to today’s ambitious chefs, restaurateurs and cookbook authors, maybe put that to rest over some avocado toast and coffee. This week, we have stories about a guy whose many new restaurants include breakfast-only joints, as well as one of this city’s most ambitious chefs who has finally resurfaced — making breakfast. For good measure, there’s a cookbook review on, yes, breakfast.

We have other stories for you, including one on what to drink with your favorite Korean barbecue, as well as more restaurant news. Oh, and chef Gino Angelini will soon be making you breakfast too.

Amy Scattergood

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A day in the life of a restaurateur

Deputy Food editor Jenn Harris trails restaurateur Jeremy Fall, who is all of 26, as he tours L.A. in the process of opening up four projects in the next two months. If you know Fall at all, it’s through his breakfast-only Venice spot Nighthawk Breakfast Bar. Soon he’ll open a burger place, more breakfast joints and a liquor store with a hidden deli.

Hamburgers and fries, in custom boxes, at Easy's in Chinatown.
Hamburgers and fries, in custom boxes, at Easy’s in Chinatown.
(Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times )

The return of Jordan Kahn

If you’re one of the many people who have missed chef Jordan Kahn’s wildly inventive cooking since his restaurant Red Medicine closed, we have good news. Food writer Gillian Ferguson reports on Kahn’s new place, a breakfast-lunch counter called Destroyer he quietly opened this week in Culver City.

Chef Jordan Kahn in 2014 at his since-closed restaurant Red Medicine.
Chef Jordan Kahn in 2014 at his since-closed restaurant Red Medicine.
(Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)
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What to drink with Korean BBQ

Sure, you can drink bottles of Hite when you eat bulgogi at your favorite Korean barbecue place or at home, but maybe try a bottle of wine instead. Wine writer Patrick Comiskey finds six great bottles to drink the next time you’re at Gwang Yang, or gathered around the table at home.

The right red,one that's high in acid but low in tannin, pairs well with Korean bulgogi.
The right red,one that’s high in acid but low in tannin, pairs well with Korean bulgogi.
(Glenn Koenig/ Los Angeles Times )

Your restaurant news update

What’s coming down the pipeline? Chef Casey Lane of Venice’s great Tasting Kitchen is opening a restaurant as part of the revamp of downtown’s Hotel Figueroa, chef Gino Angelini is opening a cafe next to his much-loved Angelini Osteria, and Dean & DeLuca is coming to Malibu.

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Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants, the authoritative annual guide to local dining, is online for subscribers. And because you’re probably wondering, Gold’s 2016 Best Restaurants list will be out in late October, along with our annual Bite Nite celebration.

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