Larry Mangino / For The Times
A man reads outside the wine shop at Irreductibles restaurant in Gratallops, Spain, near the winemaking region of Priorat. Thanks to 80-year-old vines and shale-flecked soil, Priorat's best wines are seriously expressive -- intense and rustic, yet elegant and complex. But perilous hillsides make viticulture difficult and the wines wildly expensive. Now vintners are trying to shake things up.
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