2007 Castellari Bergaglio Gavi 'Rovereto'

To find a fresh, crisp, minerally Gavi for less than $20 is something of a miracle, especially one as good as this one from Castellari Bergaglio. The Cortese di Gavi grape doesn't always produce such a beauty, but the Castellari family is picking its grapes from a vineyard that's more than 80 years old.

The "Rovereto" has definition and grace, and goes down easy with chilled shellfish or a seafood platter. Pour it for a seafood risotto or a plate of spaghetti with clams. It loves grilled fish. And it loves pasta with pesto or even a minestrone with a little pesto swirled in.

-- S. Irene Virbila

Region: Piedmont, Italy

Price: About $17.

Style: Fresh and aromatic.

What it goes with: Chilled seafood, seafood risotto, pasta with pesto, grilled fish.

Where to find it: Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, www.winex.com; the Wine Loft in Carlsbad, (760) 944-1412, www.thewineloft-carlsbad.com; Wine Pavilion in Lake Forest, (877) 338-9463 or (949) 206-9531, www.winepavilion.com; Wine Steals in Cardiff-by-the-Sea, (760) 230-2657, www.winestealssd.com; and WineStyles in Chula Vista, (619) 397-5533, www.winestyles.net.

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