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Benito Mussolini
The Kvarner Islands: Adriatic idyll
The Kvarner Islands: Adriatic idyll

I'm walking along a stretch of the Adriatic Sea that reminds me of another time, another hemisphere. It's not the forest of pine trees that offers shade along the seawall on a poster-perfect 70-degree day. It's not the little docked boats bobbing up and down or the donkey braying in the distance, competing with birds for the lone sound in the air. No, it's the water. At this spot on the Adriatic, where the sea starts to run out of room and the curvature of Eastern and Central Europe begins, it's turquoise, more brilliant than the cloudless sky above. As a very fit woman jogs by and a middle-aged woman in a shawl picks up a tiny piece of rubbish, I remember the...

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