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Jenny Holzer
The Review: Playa
The Review: Playa

On the plate, a wide-eyed Malcolm McDowell stares up at me from beneath his bowler. It's a bit disconcerting to find the violent figure from "A Clockwork Orange" sharing space with seared day-boat scallops at Playa. On another plate, squash blossom tempura is framed by another scene from the brilliant (and creepy) film. John Sedlar is pushing the envelope again. Sedlar has never been able to do just food. He has the impulses of a conceptual artist, except his medium is food. He's the Jenny Holzer of the culinary world: At his downtown restaurant Rivera he sometimes stencils the plates with evocative words written in spices. It's not just about words and images...

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