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Counter Intelligence: The Hart & the Hunter makes angelic biscuits
Counter Intelligence: The Hart & the Hunter makes angelic biscuits

The first thing anybody is going to tell you about the Hart & the Hunter, the restaurant in the new Fairfax District Palihotel, is that you should get the biscuits, which come four to an order and are served on a board. And you should get the biscuits, which are really pretty extraordinary, as light and delicate as the angel biscuits you sometimes find in the best Southern households, but also flaky at the extremities, and layered — they naturally separate into two or three finger-burning strata, which you are going to need if you want to butter them properly. I have been making biscuits since I learned how at my mother's knee, and I get my biscuit flour flown in from the...

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