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Croatia, where water park meets World Heritage Site
Croatia, where water park meets World Heritage Site

Some years ago, in the early days of our getting to know each other, my boyfriend told me about one of his most memorable meals, at a restaurant on a rock ledge overlooking the Croatian Adriatic. He had been covering the Bosnian war and had escaped to the coast, just for a day, with a few colleagues. They lingered over a meal of fish and a few bottles of wine, watching twilight descend like a pink veil over the water, a brief pause from the fallout over the breakup of the former Yugoslavia. The evening's calm beauty had stayed with him, and he knew he would return to this unsung sliver of the Adriatic. Nearly two decades have passed since the 1995 Dayton accords officially ended the...

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