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On the prowl for the best food — and mezcal — in Oaxaca, Mexico
On the prowl for the best food — and mezcal — in Oaxaca, Mexico

This city is obsessed with food. And it also happens to have some of the best eating in all of Mexico. Everywhere you go, something tempts. You find yourself darting like a hummingbird from tender sweet buns with a bowl of hot chocolate (order it with water, not milk, the way locals do), to a plate of chilaquiles in crimson Oaxacan chile sauce, to a bite of luscious ripe mango or one of the Mexican colonial city's famous moles. Even those not inclined to snack can find themselves succumbing and happily noshing day and night. Handmade nieve, or ice cream, for a midmorning snack? Why not? An empanada with a complex mole amarillo? I wouldn't say no. When my traveling...

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