Andrew Zimmern
Mexico City's 'Barrio Bravo' refuses to be conquered
Mexico City's 'Barrio Bravo' refuses to be conquered

Alfonso Hernandez stands before a mural of Jesus Christ being ferried on a lion-drawn carriage, trailed by Catholic bishops and priests. Behind them, scores of men in crisp suits — some smiling, some somber, one in dark shades — kneel as they watch the procession. They are among the dead of Tepito. "It's called the mural of the absent. They're people from here," said Hernandez, a native of the famously tough — and famously untamable — Mexico City neighborhood. "These are people who died because of the drug wars. This is to remember them here and not just in the crime blotter of the newspapers." Hernandez is the chronicler of the...