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Elvis Costello
Notes on a few amaro tastings

As I tasted an array of styles of amari at Sotto and Mozza, I became fascinated. I can see right now, I'm going to have to clear a cupboard for my growing collection. At Sotto, I was intrigued by Amaro Montenegro made in Bologna since the 1860s. It's very floral, with notes of rosewater, vanilla, citrus peel and, at the end, a pronounced bitterness. We tasted Amaro Nonino Quintessentia from the grappa producer using a family recipe from 1897, and Amaro Lucano from Matera in the south of Italy, made since 1894 in a more austere style that still includes more than 30 herbs. Amaro Meletti is one of best deals in amaro and one that really caught my fancy. There's something fresh about...

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