Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times
With Good Friday, Easter, Pesach and other important dates in the Judeo-Christian calendar, it seemed appropriate to review Redbird, Neal Fraser’s new restaurant in the rectory of the deconsecrated St. Vibiana Cathedral in downtown L.A. The view of the gently lighted nave from the open-air dining room is nearly as awe-inspiring (in a secular way, of course) as chef Neal Fraser’s posole. We also visit the Lenten Mexican dessert capirotada, the things in bowls at Kaya Street Kitchen and a place to try migas, which you can think of as the Tex-Mex answer to matzo brei.
And be on the...