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Guidebook: Eating Around Oaxaca

Times Staff Writer

Getting there: From LAX, direct service to Oaxaca is available on Mexicana and connecting service (change of planes) is offered on Mexicana and Aeromexico. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $580.

Telephones: To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 52 (country code for Mexico), 951 (the city code for Oaxaca) and the local number.

Where to stay: I stayed with a family while studying Spanish at the Becari Language School. These hotels are in the center of town:

Camino Real Oaxaca, 300 Cinco de Mayo; (800) 722-6466 or 516-0611, fax 516-0732,, about $200 double. This historic building was once a convent.

Hotel Calesa Real, 306 García Vigil; 516-5544, fax 516-7232, Double rooms begin at $110.

Hotel Marqués del Valle, Portal de Clavería; 516-3474, fax 516-9961, Double rooms are about $100.

Parador Monte Carmelo, 705 García Vigil; 501-0514. A double room is about $78.

Las Bugambilias, 402 Reforma; telephone/fax 516-1165, .htm. Doubles (some without private bath) range from $60 to $117.

Where to eat: These places to eat or buy food are within walking distance of the center of Oaxaca, except for two in outlying towns:

Comedor Regional Chabela, Stall 97 to 99, Mercado 20 de Noviembre; no phone.

Comedor Familiar la Fonda, 13, 5 de Febrero, Etla; 521-5029.

Comedor Anel, located in a line of food stalls beside the market in Ocotlán, near the zócalo; no phone.

Casa Elpidia, 413 Miguel Cabrera; 516-4292.

El Biche Pobre, 600 Calzada de la República; 513-4636.

La Capilla, Km. 14, Carretera Oaxaca-Zaachila; 528-6115.

La Casa del Tío Güero, 715 García Vigil; 516-9584.

La Olla, 402 Reforma; 516-6668.

La Primavera, Portal de Flores 1-C; 516-2595, facing the zócalo.

La Rústica, above a pharmacy at the corner of Macedonio Alcalá and Murguía; 516-7696.

Pizza e Pasta L'italiano, 416 García Vigil; 514-0252.

Taquería El Primo, corner of Zarate and Calzada de la República; no phone.

Aquí Casilda, Stalls 30 and 31 in the Mercado Benito Juárez; no phone.

Nieves Oaxaqueñas Chagüita, Stall 27 inside the Mercado Benito Juárez; 516-1350.

La Soledad chocolate, 212 F.J. Mina; 516-3807.

Chocolate Mayordomo, F.J. Mina and 20 de Noviembre; 516-0246.

Cooperativo de Productores de Café Las Montañas de Pluma, 212-A Abasolo; 514-9101.

For more information: Mexican Government Tourism Office, Mexican Consulate, 2401 W. 6th St., 5th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90057; (213) 351-2069, fax (213) 351-2074, http://www.visit

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