March 11, 2012

If you go

THE BEST WAY TO HANOI

From LAX, connecting service (change of plane) to Hanoi is offered on JAL, Asiana, Korean, China Southern Airlines, Thai and Singapore. Restricted round-trip fares range from $782 to $807, including taxes and fees. A visa is mandatory for American visitors. The easiest way to apply is through http://www.myvietnamvisa.com. The cost is $25 for a one-month, single-entry visa. The online site arranges for your documents to be waiting for you at the Hanoi airport , where an additional $25 stamping fee is required.

TELEPHONES

To call these numbers from the U.S., dial 011 (international dialing code), 84 (country code for Vietnam), 4 (the regional code) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY

Sofitel Hotel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen St., Hanoi; 3826-6919, http://www.sofitel.com. One of Vietnam's most historic hotels, built in 1901. Gorgeous spa, heated pool, flat-screen TVs. Doubles from $271.

Zéphyr Hotel, No 4-6 Ba Trieu St., Hanoi; 3934-1256, http://www.zephyrhotel.com.vn. Sleek boutique hotel in the middle of the energetic Old Quarter. Top-floor bar has beautiful city views. Doubles from $87.

WHERE TO EAT

The following are street stalls with no phones or websites. It's possible that one day they simply won't be there anymore — or will have picked up and moved elsewhere.

2C Ta Hien St., Hanoi. A tiny room with an open front that serves delicious breakfast noodles called bun doc mung made with meatballs, sliced pork, herbs and noodles.

9 Ngo Trang Tien St., Hanoi. A stall in a small alley across from the Hanoi Opera specializing in fried tofu soups called bun dau.

Corner of Hang Bo and Hang Can streets, Hanoi. A makeshift shop that sets up at night and caters to a young crowd that loves its fried chicken feet dipped in salt and lime, as well as its noodle-based soups with chicken and liver.

TO LEARN MORE

Local food blog, http://stickyrice.typepad.com

Vietnam National Administration of Tourism, http://www.vietnamtourism.com