THE BEST WAY TO NAPLES,
, Alitalia and Lufthansa offer connecting service (change of planes) to Naples. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $475.
If you're taking the train,
, from Rome's Termini Station, the fast Eurostar makes the trip to Naples in 65 minutes for about $60 one way; local trains take twice as long and cost about half as much.
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (country code for Italy) and the local number.
WHERE TO STAY
Art Resort Galleria Umberto, 83 Galleria Umberto I, 4th floor; 081-497-6224,
. Located under the eaves of the Galleria Umberto I, close to the Teatro San Carlo, with kitschy Baroque touches. Doubles from $188.
Costantinopoli 104, 104 Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli; 081-557-1035,
. A chic spot in a 19th century villa set around a quiet courtyard with a little swimming pool, just down the street from the National Archaeological Museum. Doubles from $236, including breakfast.
Hotel Il Convento, 137A Via Speranzella; 081-40-3977,
. Charming little budget chestnut on a market street just north of the Via Toledo. Doubles from $111, with breakfast.
Palazzo Turchini, 21/22 Via Medina; 081-55-10606,
. Occupies part of the original Pietà dei Turchini conservatory, where castrati singers trained. Restorations have made it a comfortable place to stay, but heartless. Doubles from $166, including breakfast.
WHERE TO EAT
Brandi, 1-2 Salita Santa Anna di Palazzo, 081-41-6928, is where Pizza Margherita was created; perfect crust; about $25 for a pizza dinner.
Ciro a Santa Brigida, 71/73 Via Santa Brigida; 081-55-24072,
A Naples institution near Teatro San Carlo and Galleria Umberto I; $30-$40 for a two-course dinner, not including wine.
La Chiacchierata, 37 Piazzetta Matilde Serao, 081-41-1465, and Hosteria Toledo, 78A Vico Giardinetto a Toledo, 081-42-1257, are two small, warm spots that do Neapolitan cuisine the way mama used to; two-course dinner about $30, not including wine.
Centro di Musica Antica Pieta de Turchini,
Conservatorio di Musica San Pietro a Majella,
Teatro San Carlo, http://www.teatrosancarlo.it; guided tours
TO LEARN MORE
Italian Government Tourist Board,
Campania Art Card,