If you go
THE BEST WAY TO DELHI
From LAX, connecting service to Delhi is offered on KLM, Lufthansa, United, Cathay Pacific, Emirates Air, Turkish Airlines, Air China, British, Asiana, China Eastern, China Airlines, Virgin Atlantic and Malaysia Airlines. Restricted round-trip airfares begin at $1,466, including fees and taxes.
WHERE TO FIND STREET FOOD
Fast-food stalls and stands pop up daily on many of the small streets and alleys in Delhi's Chandni Chowk neighborhood. The cooking is sometimes done inside and then carried out to stands on the sidewalk. Another likely area for stalls is at the city's southwestern edge near the suburb of Gurgaon.
A recent trend in Delhi and elsewhere has chaat showing up on restaurant menus. Most eateries serving street food are storefront places, but these snacks are now sold in some chain places and even in India's malls. One more traditional spot that seems to have a stable address is Bishan Swaroop (1421, Chandni Chowk, Delhi, delhi.burrp.com/listing/bishan-swaroop_chandni-chowk_delhi_road-side-stalls/160608049), which offers a selection of classic snacks at low prices. My small mixed plate of fritters cost 40 rupees, about 75 cents.
WHERE TO STAY
Leela Kempinski Gurgaon Hotel, Ambience Island, National Highway 8, Gurgaon; 011-91 (12) 4 477-1234, http://www.theleela.com/hotel-gurgaon.html is a calming oasis in an often hectic city, thanks to its edge-of-town location and sleekly modern design. Next door is a massive luxury shopping mall — one of India's largest. Doubles start at about $197.
TO LEARN MORE
Delhi Food Adventure, http://www.delhifoodadventure.comCopyright © 2015, Los Angeles Times