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Life at the beach

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, Varig has direct flights (one stop, no change of planes) to Rio de Janeiro. United, American, Continental and Lan Chile offer connecting service (change of planes). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $827.

TELEPHONES:

To call numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 55 (country code for Brazil), 21 (area code for Rio) and local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Copacabana Palace, 1702 Avenida Atlantica; 2548-7070, fax 2235-7330, http://www.copacabanapalace.com.br . Legendary and still luxurious, the Palace has a prime spot on Copacabana Beach. Doubles $395.

Everest Rio, 1117 Rua Prudente de Morais; 2525-2222, fax 2521-3198, http://www.everest.com.br . Modern hotel in Ipanema, but not on the beach. Still, there are great views of the beach and the lagoon from its top-floor restaurant (where they mix a dandy caipirinha). Doubles $114.

Rio Copa, 370 Avenida Princesa Isabel (Copacabana); 2546-9500, http://www.riocopa.com/ingles/rio/index.asp . On a busy street about three blocks off the beach, but the low rates are a compensation. Clean, comfortable doubles from $66.

WHERE TO EAT:

Fellini, 104 Rua General Urquiza, Leblon Beach; 2511-3600. Inexpensive self-serve place good for a quick lunch on a beach day. Salad bar and Italian and Brazilian entrees. You pay by the weight of the food. Typical lunch $6.

Marius, 290 Avenida Atlantica, Leme; 2542-2393. The churrascuria against which others are measured. Famous for the parade of skewer-bearing waiters, but its salad bar also is incredible. Dinner for two about $50 with drinks.

Mistura Fina, 3207 Avenida Borges de Medeiros (near the lagoon); 2537-2844, http://www.misturafina.com.br/historia.html . Elegant setting with Brazilian and European cuisine to match. Typical dinner for two $90 with wine.

Taberna da Gloria, 32A Rua do Russel; 2265-7835. Great for dinner on Sundays, when families crowd the place. It has huge servings, so you may want to share the entrees.

TO LEARN MORE:

Riotur, the City of Rio Tourism Authority, 3601 Aviation Blvd., Suite 2100, Manhattan Beach, CA 90266; (310) 643 2638, http://www.riodejaneiro-turismo.com .

Brazilian Consulate General, 8484 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 711, Beverly Hills, CA 90211; (323) 651-2664, fax (323) 651-1274, http://www.brazilian-consulate.org . Visa processing fee is $100 per person.

— Jerry V. Haines