From LAX, connecting service (change of planes) is offered on Lufthansa, British, American, Air France, Swiss and United. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,580. In the city, taxis and trams are plentiful and cheap.
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 381 (country code for Serbia) and the local number.
WHERE TO STAY:
Hotel Moskva, 1 Balkanska; 11-2686-255, www.hotelmoskva.co.yu, is an Art Nouveau landmark at the foot of Belgrade's main pedestrian walkway, with 132 clean, old-fashioned rooms faintly echoing grander times; doubles $144, including breakfast.
Balkan Hotel, 2 Prizrenska; 11-3636-000, www.balkanhotel.com, is a recently privatized and renovated hotel across the street from the Moskva with an especially stylish restaurant and bar. Doubles from $144, including breakfast.
Le Petit Piaf, 34 Skadarska; 11-3035-252, www.petitpiaf.com, is a small boutique hotel with contemporary furnishings on a picturesque street in the old city. Doubles from $174, including breakfast.
WHERE TO EAT: Tri Sesira, 29 Skadarska 29; 11-3247-501, and Dva Jelena, 32 Skadarska; 11-3234-885, are two pleasant, old-fashioned eateries on Skadarska street with grilled meats, Balkan wines and gypsy bands; at both restaurants, a three-course dinner with wine is about $10.
Stara Koliba, 11-3117-444, is a splavovi, or floating restaurant, near the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers; fish dinner with wine about $10.
Orient Express in the Balkan Hotel (above) serves excellent continental fare and cocktails; entrees $5-$10.
TO LEARN MORE: Serbia doesn't have a tourist information office in the U.S. The National Tourist Organization of Serbia has its headquarters at 8 Deeanska, Belgrade; 11-3342-521, vwww.serbia-tourism.org.
The Tourist Organization of Belgrade, 1 Deeanska, Belgrade; 11-3248-404, www.tob.co.yu, also has an information office in the subterranean shopping gallery near Terazije and Kneza Mihaila; 11-635-622.
-- Susan Spano