THE BEST WAY
From LAX, nonstop service to Cancún, one possible gateway, is available on Alaska and Mexicana, and connecting service (change of plane) is offered on Aeromexico, American, Continental and US Airways. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $280. Bacalar is about four hours south. The Belize City airport is about 30 minutes from the area; connecting service is available on American, Continental, Delta and TACA. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $329.
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 52 (country code for Mexico) and the local number.
WHERE TO STAY
Rancho Encantado, (800) 505-6292 (do not use international dialing codes), www.encantado.com. The hotel suffered some damage in Hurricane Dean, but all structural repairs are done. Doubles begin at $120 in low season (May 1 to Nov. 14) and $160 in high season (Nov. 15 to April 30). Includes breakfast and dinner; does not include tax.
Chicanná Ecovillage resort, Carreterra Escarcega-Chetumal, Kilometer 144, Calakmul, Xpujil, Campeche; www.mayanroutes.com/hotels/calakmul. There's no phone at the resort, but call 981-811-9192 for info. The resort is in the middle of the jungle, close to impressive Maya ruins. Doubles from $90.
WHERE TO EAT
La Biosfera, at the Chicanná Ecovillage (see above). The menu offered such specialties as lime and banana-cream soups ($4 to $5); stuffed pepper with fish ($7.50); and pork pocchuc, grilled pork with cheese, beans and caramelized onions ($10).
La Cosa Nostra, Zócalo Bacalar, 983-834-2867. The Italian restaurant is in Bacalar's main square, where expats and locals hang.
TO LEARN MORE
Information on Campeche:www.campeche.travel
Mexico Tourism Board, (800) 446-3942, www.visitmexico.com.