ISRAEL: Natural surprises underground

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Start digging anywhere in Israel and you’re bound to run into bones or an archeological site, as just about every spot of the ancient land had been settled by someone at some time. Construction projects are frequently held up because of archeological findings and burial grounds, for both scientific as well as religious reasons.

But some of the best underground surprises found in Israel are not human-made at all.

In early May a tractor carrying out development work for a sewage line exposed the small entrance to a cave in Israel’s western Galilee. The fortunate few called to enter were left in awe of the spectacular stalactites, as well as important prehistoric findings that include a human skull and bones of animals long gone from the Israeli landscape.

Researchers’ first impression is that the cave dates to the upper Paleolithic period, though further studies will attempt to determine whether it had been in use before that. Dr. Ofer Marder, head of the prehistory branch of the Israel Antiquities Authority, who saw the cave, said that in the last 40 to 50 years ‘no cave has been found with such a wealth of prehistoric finds and certainly not inside such a lovely stalactite cave.’

Nearly every Israeli child has visited the Soreq Cave with its wondrous limestone formations. The site, also known as the Avshalom Cave, is the country’s only stalactite cave that is open to the public; it too was uncovered accidentally, in a quarrying blast in 1968. The entire area above it was declared a nature reserve, and the cave has been open to visitors since 1975.

Scores more have been found through the years, mainly in the Galilee and the 35 million-year-old range of the Judean hills leading up to Jerusalem. At least 20 of them are said to be of the caliber of the Soreq Cave, and some Israeli researchers say a few even put to shame the caves of Dordogne in France that draw millions of tourists every year.

Scholars and authorities are torn at times between the desire to make the most of these valuable opportunities for research — as well as the instinct to protect the sites — and opening them to the public.

Even the most eco-minded tourists can compromise the delicate formations born of processes undisturbed for hundreds of thousands, perhaps millions, of years. On the other hand, opening them to the public is perhaps the best way to protect these marvelous finds from bulldozers.

But until that happens, you can enjoy the pictures.

— Batsheva Sobelman in Jerusalem

Above and below, subterranean wonders. Credit: Israel Antiquities Authority