When in Beverly Hills : <i> Where to go after the shops close....</i>

Celestino, 236 S. Beverly Drive. (213) 859-8601. Style: One of the first to serve casually authentic Italian food. Setting: Bright, unpretentious, with revolving art. Recommended dishes: Eggplant souffle; seafood salad; risotto with porcini mushrooms. Cost per person: $25-$35.

El Torito Grill, 9595 Wilshire Blvd. (213) 550-1599. Style: Southwestern minichain complete with applewood smoker and mesquite grill. Setting: Beverly Hills El Grande. Recommended dishes: Salmon picadillo; Santa Fe hash; Midwestern beer sausage. Cost per person: $10-$25.

Jimmy’s, 201 Moreno Drive. (213) 879-2394. Style: Continental cuisine for stars, studio heads and special occasions--especially if someone else is paying. Setting: Posh. Recommended dishes: Blinis topped with smoked salmon, avocado, sour cream and caviar; fillet of sole in orange butter; lobster in cognac sauce. Cost per person: $35-$50.

Nate ‘n Al, 414 N. Beverly Drive. (213) 274-0101. Style: The Godfather of local delis. Setting: True deli decor. Recommended dishes: Lox and bagels; corned beef sandwich; hot dog. Cost per person: $12-$18.

The Bistro Garden, 176 N. Canon Drive. (213) 550-3900. Style: Perfect for ladies who lunch and Hollywood wives. Setting: Fresh flowers, garden umbrellas and lights that make you look good. Recommended dishes: Cold cucumber soup; chicken burger; ox tongue marsala. Cost per person: $30-$40.