Shop by the Book : Fashion: Autumn is prime season for mail-order catalogues. But armchair shoppers may need help in grading the good, the great and the glossy.

Fall’s mail-order catalogues are arriving daily, despite persistent summer temperatures. As sheer numbers of the weighty books begin stacking up, the need for a strategy becomes apparent.

Separating the fab from the forgettable is the first step. Working women, the predominant catalogue clothes shoppers, are likely to give highest marks to books with the best assortment of women’s clothes and accessories, though many catalogues also include gear for men and children.

Rather than attempt to list the dozens of books available, here is a selective and subjective guide to help sort out some of the options:

Catalogue: Spiegel, (800) 345-4500.

Good Deals: A rayon blouse in a gold Hermes-like equestrian print with a covered button front is $65. An architecturally tailored rayon jacket with matching slim pants sells for $129. A purple suede pouch bag with a black mock-croc panel is only $88.

Expensive but Worth It: The $159 button-back suede blouse is not a bad price for suede. A pair of navy suede gloves with black embroidered trim sells for $72, but department stores sell similar styles for a lot more.

Opinion: This fall, Spiegel mixes designer duds from Charlotte Neuville and Donna Karan’s D.K.N.Y line with lower-priced items whose style doesn’t take a back seat to value.

Grade: A.

Catalogue: Tweeds, (800) 999-7997.

Good Deals: Pricier offerings than in previous seasons, but the accessories and sale items are still a bargain. Wool skimmer and wide-brim felt hats check in at under $40. Ribbed tights in a cotton/lycra blend fetch a mere $14. One steal is a Moroccan brown cotton trench coat, going for $69, regularly $99.

Expensive but Worth It: A leather weekend bag that could double as a briefcase is tagged at $49, tanned by a 16th-Century process said to improve leather’s looks with age.

Opinion: Too many long, drape-like skirts. Mini-mavens should mull over the book’s abundance of feminine blouses and interesting Mayan and buffalo-printed scarves.

Grade: C.

Catalogue: J Crew, (800) 932-0043.

Good Deals: For women traveling to rainy climates, the new cotton-lined rubber rain shoe (four colors, including au courant loden green) are a bargain at $32. Imagine the shoes you’ll save.

Expensive but Worth It: The lamb-suede fringed sarong shawl, $470.

Opinion: Anyone who’s visited the South Coast Plaza store is familiar with the no-frills formula. This fall, brighter colors such as gold, melon and peacock blue add life to basics. The clothes could use a smattering of innovative accessories, to liven up such old reliables.

Grade: B.

Catalogue: Clifford & Wills, (800) 922-1035.

Good Deals: A rich-looking long-sleeved, Merino wool cardigan and short-sleeved matching pullover is only $88. A burgundy cardigan with black trim reminiscent of a Gloria Sachs design is only $58. Sunglasses reminiscent of a popular $89 Ray-Ban cat’s-eye style are only $38. Suede pumps with Louis heels go for $52.

Expensive but Worth It: Though $199 isn’t a lot for a wool car coat, this model is the most expensive item in the book. In a unique shade of apple green with a concealed button front, it could double as a mini coat-dress.

Opinion: CW offers some outstanding fashion and accessory values of all fall clothes in direct mail books. You get more for your money.

Grade: A+.

Catalogue: The Horchow Style Collection Early Fall 1990, (800) 527-0303.

Good Deals: Not a lot to write home about, but a cute black and white rayon houndstooth check short suit by Dennis Goldsmith is well priced at $150. The $298 fully lined taupe suede dress is a bargain.

Opinion: Though the catalogue continues to devote more pages to fashion, most of it is play-it-safe wear for Marilyn Quayle clones.

Grade: C-.

Catalogue: Monarch Fall 1990 (800) 367-6002.

Good Deals: Pewter belt buckles reminiscent of Barry Kieselstein-Cord styles are finished in matte gold overlay, fastened to 1-inch suede strips priced at $46.

Expensive but Worth It: All the faux beaver and mink coats, ranging from $225 to $328.

Opinion: This is unique sportswear for day and evening with designer labels you don’t see on every rack: Joan Vass, Carol Horn. Dramatic Miriam Haskell baubles finish the outfits. There are some great blouses in rayon and cotton flannel, as well as crushed velvet bustiers and wrap tops for those bent on a return to ‘60s chic.

Grade: B.

Catalogue: Lewis E. Roberts Fall ‘90, (800) 933-5335.

Best Deals: A gold-plated triple cabochon ring featuring a faux ruby, sapphire and emerald is only $39. A gold- and silver-plated twisted-rope bracelet looks a bit like one Tiffany features, but this one sells for $25. A gold-plated ring featuring a gunmetal-colored ancient coin sells for $19.

Opinion: Instead of sticking with phony knockoffs of Granny’s archaic diamond cocktail ring, a number of fabulous fakes in this book are inspired by contemporary jewelry designers.

Grade: B+.

Catalogue: Sundance, (800) 422-2770.

Opinion: Only in-the-know shoppers know this catalogue, established in August ’89 by Robert Redford’s environmental and entertainment institution based in Sundance, Utah. American Indian craftsmanship plays an important role in all the fashion and accessories featured here. A portion of the profits goes toward preserving the environment and the craftsmanship. Even if you don’t care for the merchandise, the picture of Redford on the inside cover is reason enough to call for a catalogue.

Expensive but Worth It: A pair of tan Western boots Redford helped design sell for $379. Offered last spring for men only, the boots were the most popular item in the catalogue, so women’s sizes are now included.

Grade: A.

Catalogue: L.L. Bean, (800) 221-4221.

Best Deals: Leather clogs, making a fashion comeback in Europe and parts of the United States, sell for $49. Bean now offers the, dare we say, trendy Hind line of active sportswear. At about $16 to $45, prices are comparable to retail stores. Corporate women on the climb will appreciate Bean’s tailored, lined wool skirts for a mere $52. Skiers in search of hard-to-find silk long underwear ($24 each piece) can order it here in pink, white or navy.

Opinion: The expanded selection of office worthy sportswear is the big news here. To accent the additions, the overall look of the book has been changed. Most items used to be photographed on a flat surface. Now, many are modeled by “real people” models, which is a refreshing change of pace.

Grade: B.