Saturday Knife Fever

When I was growing up in the late 1950s, Saturday night was steak night. I remember the menu distinctly: sirloin steak broiled until rare, thin strips of russet potatoes deep-fried in vegetable oil until golden and served with ketchup, and a salad of romaine lettuce and chicory soaking in Mom’s especially tangy red-wine vinaigrette.

I still like steak with potatoes and salad, but my favorite Saturday-night dinner has changed in subtle but significant ways.

I now prefer a lean cut of beef, such as top round steak, and because I know that it is wise to eat meat in moderation, the steak is cut into thin diagonal slices and the servings are smaller.

Instead of being deep-fried, the potatoes are coated with a minimum of oil and “fried” in the oven.

The salad is made up of arugula leaves and plum tomato wedges, two ingredients that were unknown in many supermarkets before the last decade. Keep the calories down and the flavors all-American by serving a bowl of crisp, juicy apples for dessert.

Still homey and still delicious, this is a healthful version of a familiar family-style meal.

SLICED STEAK WITH RED WINE SAUCE

1 (3/4-inch-thick) top round steak, well trimmed

2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, stripped from stems or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup dry red wine

Heat large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until hot enough to evaporate drop of water. Add steak and cook, uncovered, 5 minutes. Turn over and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 1/2 teaspoon thyme and pepper to taste. Cook 5 minutes. Turn again and sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon soy sauce, remaining 1/2 teaspoon thyme and pepper to taste. Cook over medium heat until medium-rare, about 5 minutes, or until cooked to taste. Transfer to carving board and let stand.

Add red wine to skillet and cook over high heat, stirring, until reduced by half. Slice steak into thin diagonal slices and arrange on platter. Drizzle wine sauce over steak. Makes 4 servings.

OVEN-FRIED POTATOES

2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick strips

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

Salt

Rinse potato strips in very cold water and drain. Spread on towel and pat dry. Toss potatoes and olive oil in large bowl. Spread out on baking sheet.

Bake potatoes at 425 degrees until golden brown, about 40 minutes, turning once halfway through baking time. Sprinkle with parsley, garlic and salt to taste. Makes 4 servings.