1995 Mas de Bressades Cabernet-Syrah, Vin de Pays du Gard ($13)

The French are coming on strong with wines from little-known or newly emerging wine regions that offer great quality for the price (unlike Bordeaux where prices continue to soar). This “country wine” from southern France north of Marseille blends the Rho^ne’s opulent, berry- and herb-scented Syrah with the darker tones of Cabernet. Supple and focused, it’s good drinking now and for the near future. Not a sipping wine, it’s meant for food. Enjoy it with roast pigeon, grilled quail or any other game bird, pork chops or a nice piece of cheese.