Against the Tide

It took two years for Joe Jappe to make it back to the waves of Southern California.

The 54-year-old homeless man, who lives in his car in Hermosa Beach, could have given up on surfing when he lost his leg in a 1976 traffic accident, but he was determined to never quit. The desire to ride the waves helped him heal during his 24-month recovery that ended in 1978.

“The thrill of paddling out in the water and catching a wave is refreshing. It’s a form of meditation for me,” Jappe said.

Jappe surfs almost every day in the South Bay area. He uses crutches to make his way down the steps of the Manhattan Beach pier and across the sand.

“When I surf, I think I have two legs again. It keeps me going, no matter how bad life gets.”