Goodell Brings His Aubergine Talents North to Santa Monica

By any measure, Tim Goodell is one of the Southland’s best chefs. But because he’s in Newport Beach, the Orange County native hasn’t received as much exposure as he should here in Los Angeles.

Aubergine ends up on too many lists of restaurants to visit--sometime. Sometime when somebody else is driving, or when a weekend at the beach is in the offing.

Without a chauffeur or extraordinarily generous designated driver, the journey back after a multi-course meal with wine can be daunting.

Now Goodell and his wife, Liza, have opened their fourth restaurant, this one in Santa Monica. Called Whist, this hip restaurant inside the new Viceroy Hotel is definitely something different for the Goodells. (They also own Troquet at South Coast Plaza and Red Pearl Kitchen in Huntington Beach.)

Designed by Kelly Werstler, the rather plain dining room is trumped by the whimsical retro-glamour of the bar, which sprawls out into a patio area with two postage stamp-sized pools surrounded by a series of cabanas. The bar is so thronged, the restaurant can feel a bit lonely in comparison, especially since the exuberant noise level reverberates into the dining room.

That’s going to change, and soon, because the food, even at this early stage, is good enough to warrant braving the trendy scene at the Viceroy.

So many dishes leap off the menu page that eating at Whist becomes a frustrating exercise if you’re only two. Come with a group of friends to share the marvelous terrine of house-cured foie gras presented in a French canning jar.

The house-smoked trout with sweet onion tart is a terrific match with Champagne. A lovely crab cake island floats in a lake of delicious white corn chowder. In Goodell and chef Jeff Armstrong’s hands, even seemingly simple little starters like Boston bibb salad take on new luster with a flourish of lemon, avocado and pecorino cheese.

Among the entrees, duck breast in a caramelized honey glaze scented with coriander, skate wing cooked on the bone and lightly smoked, braised, prime short ribs showered with horseradish gremolata stand out.

Jet-lagged travelers who long for something uncomplicated can choose steaks, lamb T-bone and double-cut pork chop from a short menu of broiled dishes.

Sides, most from the realm of comfort food, include a French grandmother’s potatoes au gratin, a soft cloud of polenta and excellent creamed corn.

Whist is serious, but fun. Pastry chef Shelly Register nudges things in that direction by offering several desserts for the table to share.

Before the berry season is over, run, don’t walk, preferably with three or four friends in tow, to try the dreamy trifle.

On the individual dessert front, there’s a silky buttermilk panna cotta garnished with strawberries macerated in balsamic vinegar and a roasted peach with Oregon blueberries and creme fraiche ice cream.

Because Whist is a hotel restaurant, it’s also open for lunch and breakfast. I can’t wait to see what Goodell is going to do with that.

Whist, Viceroy Hotel, 1819 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; hotel (310) 451 8711; restaurant (310) 260-7511. Dinner appetizers, $10 to $18; main courses, $21 to $34. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Full bar. Valet parking.