From restaurant to restaurant, the olives speak volumes about the chef

Oven-roasted olives at Mozza

At once rustic and luxe, with a touch of citrus, they’re warm and welcoming, just like chef Nancy Silverton.

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Lucques, Lucques, Lucques at Lucques

The olives for which the restaurant is named are classy, petite and self-contained, a la chef Suzanne Goin.

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Matteo’s marinated olive antipasto

Red Cerignola! Green Castelvetrano! Black Gaeta! Watch out, here comes chef Don Dickman

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Moroccan chic at Tagine

With harissa and preserved Meyer lemons, chef Abdessamad “Ben” Benameur shows post-Paul Bowles style.

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Jumbo pitted California black olive appetizer at Musso & Frank Grill.

A big handful, served on a bed of lettuce, with a toothpick.

-- Amy Scattergood and Leslie Brenner