Good as gold for party appetites
A LET’S-get-a-few-friends-together soiree begs for party snacks with a few surprise ingredients -- bite-size turnovers that have personality and that go down perfectly with either a glass of crisp, cool white wine or a light summer ale.
These are life-of-the-party appetizers. Green and leafy watercress puts a peppery twist on traditional spanakopita, and fresh herbs and wild mushrooms class up mini calzones with truffle cheese. Ripe plantains used as the “dough” for festive vegetarian empanadas are a sweet-savory indulgence, light enough for a spring evening.
The fun one: Ditch the flour and make the empanada dough from a combination of plantains and bananas. Roast the plantains until they literally ooze from their skins, then blend them with super-ripe bananas and salt. A tortilla press -- inexpensive and readily available at most Latino markets -- and two sheets of plastic wrap serve best to flatten balls of the sticky dough into round discs ready for stuffing, but a heavy-bottom skillet can substitute for the press.
Toss together green onions, roasted chipotle, cheese and refried beans and spoon a little onto each empanada, then carefully fold the dough into half-moon shapes. Pan-fry them quickly in hot oil until golden brown on the outside; the result is light and crisp on the outside, warm and tender on the inside. Serve them immediately with chilled chipotle-inflected creme fraiche.
Herb ‘n’ mushroom bliss: Mounds of fresh herbs are overflowing at markets, so it’s almost a given to throw a handful into a calzone dough. Sprinkle in some thyme and make way for the guests who will follow the crisp aroma into the kitchen.
For the filling, a mix of wild mushrooms -- like oyster, shiitake and creminis -- pairs beautifully with the thyme. Add a bit of pancetta and truffle cheese (truffle cheese is easier to find than truffles). Grind some black pepper onto the thyme-flecked calzones and watch them puff up into golden morsels, warm and deliciously gooey in the middle.
Presto pesto: Watercress is the base for a pesto that gets tucked into spanakopita-style turnovers. We keep the feta cheese, the tang of which goes well with the watercress pesto (made with the addition of garlic and almonds) and add lemon-garlic chicken. The marinated chicken can be grilled ahead of time and stored in the fridge.
The sheets of paper-thin filo dough traditionally used for spanakopitas can be found at most grocery stores and Greek markets. (Keep them covered with damp paper towels and handle delicately.)
Lay one sheet on a clean surface and brush lightly with melted butter. Add two more sheets brushed with butter. Cut the dough cross-wise into eight strips, then spoon a little chicken, pesto and a pinch of feta on one end before folding into triangles.
In less than 20 minutes, the lightly golden turnovers emerge sharp and rich -- a brilliantly buttery party treat.
You can also put them in airtight plastic bags and freeze them and then reheat them at your leisure -- for even those unexpected guests.
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Denise Martin is a freelance writer; Donna Deane is the Times test kitchen director.
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Mushroom and cheese calzones
Total time: About 2 hours
Servings: 2 1/2 dozen
Note: From test kitchen director Donna Deane. Truffle cheese is available at Trader Joe’s stores and specialty cheese stores. The calzones can be made several hours ahead and reheated at 350 degrees for 5 minutes just before serving.
2 teaspoons dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
3 cups flour
3 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, divided
Salt
1/2 pound mixed mushrooms such as shiitake, crimini, oyster and button, cut into 1/2 -inch pieces (about 4 cups)
1/3 cup pancetta, cut into 1/4 -inch dice
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1 clove garlic, minced
Freshly ground black pepper
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup shredded truffle cheese
1. Dissolve the yeast in one-half cup of warm water. Sprinkle the sugar over the mixture and stir. Allow to stand until bubbly, 10 to 15 minutes, then stir in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.
2. In a large mixing bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the flour, 3 teaspoons thyme and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the yeast mixture to the flour along with an additional one-half cup warm water and mix to combine.
3. Turn out the dough onto a board and knead by hand, or continue to mix using a dough hook, until smooth and satiny, about 5 minutes. Place the dough into an oiled bowl and cover loosely with plastic wrap, then allow to rise until doubled, about 45 minutes.
4. While the dough is rising, prepare the mushroom filling. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large, heavy sauce pot over medium-high heat until hot. Add the mushrooms and three-eighths teaspoon salt. Saute, stirring, until the mushrooms are lightly browned and dry, about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
5. To the pot, add the remaining tablespoon oil along with the pancetta and saute over medium heat until caramelized and crispy, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the shallots and garlic and saute until they are tender and fragrant, 1 minute. Stir in the reserved mushrooms and the remaining half-teaspoon of thyme. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then cool to room temperature.
6. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Punch down the dough and divide it in half. Roll out each half to one-eighth-inch thickness, then cut out rounds using a 2 1/2 -inch cutter. You should have 2 1/2 dozen rounds from each half.
7. Assemble the calzones: Lightly brush the edges of half of the rounds with the beaten egg, then top with a generous teaspoon of mushroom filling and a half-teaspoon of cheese. Top each mound with another round of dough, pressing the edges together to seal completely. Brush each calzone with the beaten egg, then top with a sprinkle of fresh ground pepper. Make a small slit in the center of each calzone to form a vent and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Serve warm.
Each serving: 86 calories; 3 grams protein; 12 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 3 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 10 mg. cholesterol; 139 mg. sodium.
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Chicken and watercress pesto turnovers
Total time: About 2 hours
Servings: Makes 4 dozen
Note: From test kitchen director Donna Deane. This recipe uses 13-by-18-inch filo sheets. The turnovers can be baked ahead and frozen. Reheat at 350 degrees for 10 minutes.
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 crushed garlic cloves, plus 2 minced garlic cloves, divided
2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cups loosely packed watercress, leaves only (stems removed)
1/4 cup toasted, slivered almonds
18 sheets filo dough
1/2 cup (1 stick) melted butter or more as needed
1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
1. In a nonreactive, shallow baking dish, stir together 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, lemon zest and crushed garlic. Add the chicken breasts and rub them all over with the marinade. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.
2. While the chicken is marinating, make the pesto. Puree the watercress, minced garlic, almonds and one-fourth teaspoon salt in a food processor until smooth. With the motor running, drizzle in the remaining one-third cup olive oil until emulsified. Set aside.
3. Heat a grill pan or grill over medium-high heat. Shake off the excess marinade and season each chicken breast with one-fourth teaspoon salt and a couple grinds of black pepper. Place the chicken on a medium-hot grill and cook until the meat is opaque and firm and a thermometer inserted in the center reads 160 degrees, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool, then cut into a one-fourth-inch dice.
4. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly brush one sheet of filo dough with melted butter. Top with a second sheet and brush with butter. Top with a third sheet. Use a sharp knife to cut the filo dough crosswise into eight strips. Spoon about 1 teaspoon diced chicken at one end of the filo strip. Top with one-half teaspoon of the pesto, then about one-fourth teaspoon cheese.
5. Fold one corner over the filling, forming a small triangle. Continue to fold, as if folding a flag, retaining the triangular shape. The last fold may need trimming. Repeat with the remaining filling and filo strips. Place turnovers in a single layer on parchment-lined baking sheets, lightly brush with melted butter. Bake till golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes.
Each serving: 68 calories; 2 grams protein; 4 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 5 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 9 mg. cholesterol; 47 mg. sodium.
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Plantain empanadas with chipotle crema
Total time: 2 hours, plus cooling time
Servings: Makes 30 empanadas
Note: Adapted from a Border Grill recipe. The plantains should be mostly brown with only a little yellow; plantains with any green on them will not be sweet.
6 very ripe plantains, unpeeled
2 small poblano chiles, roasted, peeled and seeded
2 cups good-quality, canned refried black beans
4 green onions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
1/2 cup grated anejo, Romano or feta cheese
1/2 cup grated Manchego or Monterey Jack cheese
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 ripe bananas, peeled
2 medium onions, roughly chopped
7 dried chipotle chiles, stemmed, or 3 canned chipotle chiles, stemmed and rinsed
16 Roma tomatoes, cored
20 garlic cloves, peeled
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 cup peanut oil
1 cup crema, creme fraiche or sour cream
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut a lengthwise slit into each plantain and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until the flesh is thoroughly soft and oozing through the slit, 40 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.
2. While the plantains are roasting, make the stuffing: Finely dice the poblano chiles. In a medium bowl, combine the diced chiles, beans, green onions, cheeses and one-half teaspoon each of salt and pepper. The stuffing can be made up to a day in advance and reserved in the refrigerator.
3. Make the dough: Peel, trim and discard any tough ends from the plantains. In a food processor or in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, combine the plantains and bananas with 2 teaspoons salt and puree. Be careful not to overwork the dough or it will become too starchy. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill until firm, about 2 hours.
4. Make the chipotle salsa: Combine the onions, chipotle chiles, tomatoes, garlic and 6 cups water in a medium saucepan. Stir in 4 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon pepper and the sugar. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes or until the liquid is reduced by about one-third and the tomato skins are falling off. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Pour the mixture into a blender or food processor and puree until smooth, then cover and refrigerate. This makes more salsa than is needed for this recipe. The remainder can be reserved for another use.
5. To assemble the empanadas, roll 2 tablespoons of the dough lightly between your palms to form a ball. Line the bottom of a tortilla press with a small plastic bag or plastic wrap and place the ball of dough in the center. Place another small plastic bag, or piece of plastic wrap, over the dough and press to form a 3 1/2 -inch circle. Place 1 teaspoon of bean stuffing on half of the circle and fold over to enclose, pressing the edges to seal. Repeat until you have used up the dough and stuffing; you should have about 30 empanadas. Place the stuffed empanadas on a tray and chill at least 30 minutes, up to a day.
6. Heat the peanut oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat, until a thermometer inserted reads 350 degrees. Fry four to six empanadas at a time, shaking the pan constantly, about 1 minute until dark brown. Flip and cook the reverse side of each. Remove the empanadas and drain on paper towels.
7. Combine 1 cup of the chipotle salsa with the crema in a small bowl. Serve with the warm empanadas.
Each empanada: 133 calories; 3 grams protein; 18 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 7 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 7 mg. cholesterol; 431 mg. sodium.
