Jonathan Gold reviews Playa Amor

Pescado zarandeado, a 1.5-to-2-pound striped bass, cilantro, red onion, lemon, garlic, smoky chipotle, pico de gallo, corn tortillas, rice and beans.

Beef short rib birria, with charred carrots, caramelized onion rings, roasted tomato chile broth, cilantro, corn tortillas, rice and beans.

New Mexico green Hatch spaghetti, with garlic cream, Hatch chile, chives and pecorino cheese.

Chile relleno burger, with Angus beef blend, cheese-stuffed Anaheim chile, remoulade, red leaf, tomato, grilled onion on a brioche bun.

Pork belly tacos, with grilled onion, chipotle, aji verde, cilantro, mint, chile lime peanuts and cotija.

Mole tot poutine, with tater tots, mole negro, queso, crema, cilantro, radish and onions.

Fresh corn tortillas are made in front of diners.

Estilo Puerto Nuevo lobster, a roasted 1-to-1.25-pound Maine lobster, pico de gallo, clarified butter, chipotle salsa, rice, beans and fresh flour tortillas.

Churros with salted caramel.

The mango con chile cocktail, with Sauza blue silver tequila, mango purée, limeade, agave chamoy, chile powder, infused salt rim and mango candy.

Ceviche mixto, with fresh Albacore, bay scallops, Mexican white shrimp, pico de gallo, citrus juice, guacamole, roasted garlic aioli, cabbage, cotija and corn tostadas.

A variety of plates, including Puerto Nuevo-style lobster, center.

The Playa margarita, with Silver tequila, limeade, agave, pineapple juice, orange liqueur, orange and lime muddle and infused salt rim.

Chef Thomas Ortega, left, and lifelong friend and business partner Todd Tsujioka are seen at Playa Amor in Long Beach.

A look inside Playa Amor.