When one bottle just won’t do

THE SUMMER season means backyard barbecues, big events such as weddings and showers, and serendipitous gatherings like impromptu pool parties and after-work get-togethers on the patio. All great reasons to have a nice bottle of wine on hand, one that’s refreshing in hot weather and inexpensive enough to serve to larger groups of guests without flinching.

We each have our own flinch point when it comes to wine. For me, a great summer bottle costs around $8 to $12, and when I find that great summer bottle, I buy it by the case, for several reasons. The first is convenience; it avoids the frenzied last-minute run to the nearest liquor store to buy four bottles of whatever looks good. The second reason is to save money. Many retailers give a case discount of 5% to 15%. Even if there’s no case discount -- those retailers say that the price is already discounted -- you’re saving money by avoiding unnecessary trips to the wine store.

Finally, it’s just more relaxing to know that you’re well-supplied with terrific wine, no matter who’s expected for dinner or what’s on the menu. We’re all looking for ways to simplify our lives. The strategic summer “case buy” is one of those ways.

This year, the search for affordable wines of quality requires a different road map. The anemic dollar has caused many traditional European summer picks to edge past my personal flinch point. I fondly recall past summers that were pleasantly lubricated by oceans of better-quality Italian Soave and Pinot Grigio, waves of French Beaujolais from excellent small producers, and rivers of delightfully tart Muscadet, all of which could be ferreted out for around $10 to $12 a bottle, sometimes even less. Those days are gone, but other wine regions and countries have moved to the forefront of the affordable wine scene, such as Austria, Spain, California, New Zealand and southern France and Italy.

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A serendipitous blend

To BE a great summer case buy, a wine should not only be inexpensive, but also be sippable on its own as well as complementary to a variety of foods. In white wine, look for a fresh, aromatic bouquet; a light to medium body; and a crisp acidity level to make it refreshing and to pair with lighter summer meals of salads, sushi, grilled chicken and fish. Stay away from big, oaky, high-alcohol wines, white or red. In hot weather they’re tiring to drink.

Grape types that work well for summer whites include Gruner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino and Riesling.

For summer red wine case buys, steer clear of tannic, high-alcohol Cabs and Zins and look for lighter, fruitier bottlings made from grapes such as Tempranillo, Gamay, Grenache and other Rhone varietals, and various Italians, including Nero d’Avola and Montepulciano. (Pinot Noir would be ideal, but it’s tough to find a palatable Pinot for less than $12).

Wines that deliver flavor and good acidity will stand up to summer’s mixed grills, pairing well with burgers, portobello mushrooms, ribs or tri-tip. If the red can take a little chill -- say, a half-hour in the fridge -- so much the better. During warm weather, reds taste best at cool room temperature.

Whatever wine you’re considering, it’s important to check the label for the alcohol content, a pretty accurate indicator of the wine’s heft and balance.

Wines with alcohol levels of 14% or more can taste heavy and hot during the summer (during the winter too, but that’s another subject). And because higher-alcohol wines really pack a punch, they are a poor choice for pouring at a summer party, unless you have planned for all 18 guests to spend the night.

Though reds with an attractive and balanced fruit component taste great in summer, for case buys it’s a good idea to avoid so-called fruit bombs, wines that deliver a blast of ripe cherry-berry aromas, a hefty dose of alcohol and not much else. Initially, fruit bombs can be seductive. Those first sips may taste great, but you’ll become bored with them. It’s like dating someone half your age. There’s that immediate, in-your-face appeal, but no depth. They can’t hold up their end of the conversation; they don’t leave you wanting more. After the third date/bottle, you’re asking yourself, “What was I thinking?”

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Strategizing

For A buying strategy, there are several options. You can head to your supermarket, gourmet grocer, membership warehouse or wine chain store, and pick up what they’re featuring in this price range. That can work; last summer, after a tip from Wine Spectator columnist Matt Kramer, I bought a ton of very good 2005 Louis Jadot Beaujolais at Vons, which briefly had it on sale for -- I swear -- $7 a bottle. (This year, the wine isn’t as good and, needless to say, that price point is histoire.) Trader Joe’s has terrific buys, but inventory differs from store to store and small lots sell out, so securing a case can be frustrating.

Another way to sample wine for a case buy is at restaurants and wine bars, which can be a great method of finding bottles you like in your price range (keeping in mind the substantial markup on most wine lists). Tracking down your finds can be a challenge. The first step is to look at the wine label and write down the wine name, producer and vintage, as well as its importer or distributor. Then you can call a local wine retailer to see if they carry the wine or can order it, or call the distributor and ask which retailers stock it. Another tactic is to put the wine name plus your city into a search engine and see what comes up. Either way, expect to make multiple phone calls, but the right wine is worth the trouble.

The other strategy -- and my favorite -- is to visit your local independent wine retailer and taste their recommendations in your price range.

In recent weeks, I’ve made the rounds (yes, tough job) and found eight amazingly inexpensive bottles that will make great summer sipping this season. Your favorite retailer may have several options that are equally good and cheap. Some wine shops have wine in this price range open and available to taste, but more often you’ll have to buy a bottle or two, so it’s best to explain very specifically what kinds of wine you like and what price you’re looking to pay.

Don’t invest in a case without trying a bottle. In other words, don’t take my word for it, and don’t take the retailer’s word either. Taste is subjective, and buying wine is not like picking up a sweater at Macy’s; many retailers won’t take back unopened bottles, at least in part due to concerns about how the wine may have been handled outside the store (a few hours in a car trunk on a sunny day can ruin wine).

Once you’ve found a wine you like, a case buy (or multiple cases, if you have thirsty friends) means you’ll have it on hand through the summer. And I hear it could be a hot one.

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food@latimes.com

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Nice buys, in case you want a case

These eight wines offer appealing flavor, excellent balance and moderate alcohol content and are low-priced, making them excellent case buys for summer gatherings. They were selected by sampling a range of under-$12 bottles available at Los Angeles retail outlets. A buying note: Be sure to ask about case discounts; some retailers offer them and some don’t. Wines are listed in each category by price, starting with the least expensive.

Whites

2007 Bio-Weingut H.u.M. Hofer Gruner Veltliner. Open this organic Gruner Veltliner from Austria like a beer bottle -- it’s sealed with a crown cap. Despite its unpretentious top, this is a seriously delicious wine, with an herbal, floral-scented bouquet, zingy flavors of green apples and citrus, and a crisp, spicy finish. A consummate summer wine from master importer and Austrian specialist Terry Theise. Available at K&L; Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, www.klwines.com; and Silverlake Wine in Silver Lake, (323) 662-9024, www.silverlakewine .com. About $11 for 1 liter (equivalent to about $8.25 for a standard 750 ml bottle).

2007 Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc. Artfully blended from grapes sourced throughout California, this is a full-bodied, lush, dry white with an attractive melon-scented nose and spicy flavors. Gott’s wines almost always represent good values and this is no exception. The screw cap means no worries about the bottle being spoiled by cork taint. Available at K&L; Wine Merchants; Wally’s in West L.A., (310) 475-0606, www.wallywine .com; and Whole Foods markets in Southern California, www.wholefoodsmarket.com. About $9 to $11.

2006 Burgans Albarino Rias Baixas. Lots of Spanish Albarinos nudge the $20 mark; this one from Rias Baixas possesses all the charms of this superb grape at an unbelievable price. A light gold color, the wine delivers a seductive aroma of citrus blossoms and ripe melon, but it’s no lightweight. It’s got the stuffing to stand up to food, a nice creamy texture, and finishes crisp and dry. Available at K&L; Wine Merchants; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111, www.whwc.com. About $10.

2007 Babich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Many New Zealand Sauvignons are aggressively herbal; this example from the venerable Babich winery hews to a more moderate style with attractive tropical-fruit aromas in the nose and well-balanced, crisp flavor with mineral notes. Available at Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454, www.winex.com; and Wine House in West L.A., (310) 479-3731, www.winehouse.com. About $12.

Reds

2006 Eguren Tempranillo Vino de la Tierra de Castilla. Made from Tempranillo grapes grown in Spain’s vast central Castilla region, this remarkably stylish wine offers a beguiling scent of raspberries and leather and is supple and well-balanced on the palate with notes of cherries and smoke. Extremely drinkable, yet it has lots of flavor interest. Available at K&L; Wine Merchants and Woodland Hills Wine Co. About $10 for 1 liter (equivalent to about $7.50 for a standard 750 ml bottle).

2005 Colosi Rosso. This red wine made from Sicily’s Nero d’Avola grape is a delightful medium-bodied red with an earthy, smoky nose, ripe berry fruit flavors and just a hint of the tarriness that’s a hallmark of this varietal. The Colosi shows great balance and is a terrific match with grilled meat or even tomato-sauced pasta dishes. Available at Wine Exchange and Wine House. About $9.

2006 Bodega Vinedos De Aldeanueva Cortijo III Rioja. An entry-level Rioja at a good price, the Cortijo is a raspberry-scented, appealing red with fine balance and ripe cherry flavors on the palate offset by earthy notes. Mostly Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha (Grenache), this full-bodied young red is another great food wine. Available at Whole Foods markets; Wine Country in Signal Hill, (562) 597-8303, www.thewine country.com; and Wine House. About $9.

2005 Domaine Monpertuis Cuvee Counoise Vin de Pays du Gard. Had much Counoise lately? It’s a workhorse Rhone varietal that usually plays a minor role in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and other blends, but here it struts to center stage. This deeply colored red is full of jammy, plummy aromas; is richly textured on the palate; and has excellent acidity and length. The most complex of these four reds, the Counoise is a great buy from importer Neal Rosenthal. Available at Silverlake Wine and Wine House. About $12.

-- Jean T. Barrett