His big bomber is Testamatta, a superb pure Sangiovese wine. Grilli del Testamatta is its little brother, made with the grapes that didn't make it into Testamatta, which means mostly those from younger vines. A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 10% each Canaiolo and Colorino, the 2006 Grilli is a lovely, juicy wine, bursting with soft, ripe cherry flavors, velvety and flat-out delicious.
Note: if you can read Italian (or follow along with the help of a dictionary), Graetz has his own blog at bibigraetz.myblog.it.
-- S. Irene Virbila
Price: $27 to $33
Style: Rich, lush
What it goes with: Pizza, pasta, bean and vegetable soups, grilled steak or chops.
Where to find it: K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, www.klwines.com; Wade's Wines in Westlake Village, (818) 597-9463, www.wadeswines.com; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454, www.winex.com; the Wine House in West L.A., (310) 479-3731, www.winehouse.com.