Why yes, that magazine I've been carrying around all day is called Gluten Free Forever – or "GFF" to its best friends. And yes, that is the third recipe from it I've photocopied today. But I haven't turned gluten-free on you, I swear.
It's just that how could you pass up Craig Stoll's recipe for something called turchetta; a Heritage turkey boned out, stuffed with rosemary, fennel and minced lardo, then rolled into a fat log to crisp up in the oven like so much suckling pig?
Or a new way to roast cauliflower with cheddar and Parmigiano-Reggiano? Or caramelized apple-cheddar hand pies from Michael Recchiuti? If you ignore the occasional Glutino bagel crisp in a cheese article or the quinoa spaghetti in what looks like a terrific recipe for fideo, it would be easy to overlook the gluten-free slant of the magazine in its entirety.
"GFF" is the obsession of Erika Lenkert, a Bay Area food writer, once a columnist for Los Angeles magazine, who discovered her gluten intolerance in 2001, but found it difficult to find a publication running gluten-free recipes that she actually wanted to eat. She raised the money for the magazine in a well-subscribed Kickstarter campaign.
At least in its first issue, Gluten Free Forever seems to be one of the first publications of its type to embrace the larger food world, or at least the part of it that might enjoy pancetta-wrapped endive with the syrupy grape reduction called saba.
The cover photo is of Lena Kwak, who developed the non-gluten flour Cup 4 Cup with Thomas Keller, dusted white like the star of a Noh drama. There is an attractive neighborhood guide to San Francisco restaurants (and the gluten-free dishes you might find in each of them). Catherine Jacobs' design is unfussy and bright, built around the crisp, saturated food photography of Maren Caruso. Gluten Free Forever is worth picking up.