Jonathan Gold reviews Erven

Roasted carrots with coconut, crispy lentils, Thai herbs and tamarind Sriracha at Erven restaurant in Santa Monica.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Dec. 2, 2016 9 AM PT

Beer-battered tofu sandwich with slaw, thick pickle and manchamantel at Erven restaurant.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Shredded cabbage pancake with braised eggplant and chili hoisin at Erven restaurant in Santa Monica.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Onion bread pudding with mushroom chili, broccoli and spicy squash spread at Erven restaurant.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Black garlic-chickpea fritter with yuzu and Aleppo pepper at Erven restaurant.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Erven restaurant in Santa Monica.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Green juice: kale, parsley, cucumber, ginger, spinach and celery prepared by chef Nick Erven at Erven restaurant.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Beet juice: red beets, tarragon, green apple and pineapple prepared by chef Nick Erven at Erven restaurant.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Beet juice: red beets, tarragon, green apple and pineapple prepared by chef Nick Erven at Erven restaurant.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Chocolate “liquid” doughnut with frozen peanut butter brittle ganache, huckleberries and potato chips at Erven restaurant in Santa Monica.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Chocolate “liquid” doughnut with frozen peanut butter brittle ganache, huckleberries and potato chips at Erven restaurant in Santa Monica.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Nick Erven at Erven restaurant in Santa Monica.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)