Jonathan Gold

The Best Restaurants

More Jonathan Gold

  • Salt's Cure brings the city's best pork chop to its new location on Highland Avenue

    Salt's Cure brings the city's best pork chop to its new location on Highland Avenue

    It is probably easier to find a great pork chop in Los Angeles than it has ever been, from the char siu pork chop at Jar to the fennel-crusted chop at Sotto, to the racket-size tomahawks at Chi'Spacca. But the best pork chop in town is the one at Salt's Cure in its new Hollywood digs: a full pound...

  • Kagura does a crisp business in the pork cutlet known as tonkatsu

    Kagura does a crisp business in the pork cutlet known as tonkatsu

    Los Angeles, I believe, has yet to reach Peak Ramen. New sushi bars seem to open each week. In some parts of town, you are rarely more than a few minutes' drive from a curry house, a Japanese spaghetti parlor or a plate of okonomiyaki. Yet occasionally it seems as if too little is said about tonkatsu,...

  • Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    If you've been to Tokyo, you know that finding a restaurant can be even harder than wrangling a reservation to one, even if you have an exact street address, even if you're with a friend who knows the neighborhood fairly well. Sometimes the best places are on the 12th floor of what looks like an...

  • The small plates at Moruno hold some big ideas

    The small plates at Moruno hold some big ideas

    Moruno, one might imagine, is a restaurant devoted to the pincho moruno, the miniature shish kebabs that you find almost everywhere in southern Spain. Chris Feldmeier, the chef, goes to Seville a lot, and pinchos moruno, marinated in olive oil, lemon juice and a cumin-heavy spice mixture pretty...

  • Officine Brera is so grand and serious that it's nearly operatic

    Officine Brera is so grand and serious that it's nearly operatic

    The most obscurely located new restaurant in town? It may be Officine Brera, tucked into the rear of a parking lot at the end of 6th Street at the end of what seems like the world's largest no-parking zone and located near a gun club a few steps from the stub of the demolished 6th Street Bridge....

  • At Leona, the roast dumpling squash makes a statement

    At Leona, the roast dumpling squash makes a statement

    It is clear we have entered the age of the roasted vegetable, a glorious epoch when a stalwart carrot or celery root, warmed in dying embers, can take the place on a plate formerly ceded to a game hen or a slab of richly marbled beef. If you have tasted Nancy Silverton's wood-blasted eggplant at...

  • Jonathan Gold's Los Angeles: Shrimp & Grits

    Jonathan Gold's Los Angeles: Shrimp & Grits

    Govind Armstrong.  A low-country classic.  Chef Govind Armstrong’s version at Willie Jane is restrained, vegetable-forward and delicious.

  • At Viviane in the Avalon Hotel, Michael Hung's French cooking is clean and soft

    At Viviane in the Avalon Hotel, Michael Hung's French cooking is clean and soft

    If you are tangentially involved in the entertainment industry, you have probably spent your share of afternoons at the Avalon Hotel, stopping by for an egg-white frittata with a visiting screenwriter friend, horning in on a buddy's lunch with his book publicist, or having a drink with an agent...

  • Andy Ricker's Pok Pok brings a genuine taste of Thailand to L.A.

    Andy Ricker's Pok Pok brings a genuine taste of Thailand to L.A.

    Is it possible to become converted in a single bite? Because with a single fried chicken wing at the original Portland Pok Pok in 2007, I dropped my prejudices about non-European cooking in Oregon, the crossover potential of extreme Asian funk, and the ability of a non-Thai to prepare anything...

  • A mole tamale Oaxacan Christmas feast

    A mole tamale Oaxacan Christmas feast

    How do you know it's Christmas at Bricia Lopez's house? There's a big Christmas tree in one corner of the art-filled hillside bungalow; a baby bobs in his bouncy chair. Bricia, her sisters Elizabeth Lopez and Paulina Lopez Velasquez, and her mother, Maria de Jesus, wear coordinated Oaxacan aprons...

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