Jonathan Gold

The Best Restaurants

 

After NYT pans Locol, Jonathan Gold wonders if some restaurants are unreviewable

If you’ve been paying attention to food media this last week, you’ve probably heard a lot about Pete Wells’ zero-star review of Locol in the New York Times last Wednesday, in which he compared the hamburger to something he’d once eaten at Boy Scout camp. The review was of the Oakland location,...

More Jonathan Gold

  • Now you can ask food critic Jonathan Gold for advice anytime

    Now you can ask food critic Jonathan Gold for advice anytime

    The self-proclaimed “belly of Los Angeles” has passed on his encyclopedic knowledge of the best food in L.A. to his chatbot twin: Goldbot. Yes, you heard that right. You can now talk to acclaimed food critic Jonathan Gold any time you want — or at least the robot version of him that now lives on...

  • Jonathan Gold goes on a holiday tamale crawl across L.A.

    Jonathan Gold goes on a holiday tamale crawl across L.A.

    I don’t think you can find them all on Google, but this is probably the 12th or 13th time I have been assigned to write a year-end tamale piece, and for almost all of them I have made the rounds of more or less the same Boyle Heights tamaleros before declaring once again that Juanito’s is definitively...

  • Jonathan Gold's 10 best dishes of 2016

    Jonathan Gold's 10 best dishes of 2016

    2016, by all accounts, was a year from which we will not soon recover; a year when the social-media obsessives among us were reduced to peeking at Twitter feeds between their fingers. But the food wasn’t bad – the year saw the rise of Filipino cooking, a wave of woman chefs and the resurgence of...

  • Jonathan Gold didn't expect a Nick Erven vegan restaurant, but it might be L.A.'s best vegan dining

    Jonathan Gold didn't expect a Nick Erven vegan restaurant, but it might be L.A.'s best vegan dining

    When you walk into Erven, Nick Erven’s newish restaurant in Santa Monica, you may not immediately place it as vegan. There’s a kind of deli counter up front selling salads and sandwiches to go, and the guy at the host station may hand you a shot glass of sangria as a gesture of goodwill. The smell...

  • Jonathan Gold finds strong flavors and a splendid bar at Here’s Looking at You in Koreatown

    Jonathan Gold finds strong flavors and a splendid bar at Here’s Looking at You in Koreatown

    In a Times op-ed a few weeks ago, the architect Thom Mayne suggested Koreatown as a candidate for future hyperdensity, doubling the population of what is already the most densely populated neighborhood in Los Angeles. If you have ever tried to find a parking spot anywhere around dinner hour, you...

  • Jonathan Gold finds surprisingly good food at an Arts District bar

    Jonathan Gold finds surprisingly good food at an Arts District bar

    Everson Royce Bar isn’t really a restaurant. To be fair, it doesn’t even try to be a restaurant — the word “bar” is in its name, right after the names of one of its partner’s young twins. It doesn’t serve restaurant food. When you glance at the menu of the year-old Arts District bar, the food takes...

  • You’re probably going to want to try Gus’s Fried Chicken

    You’re probably going to want to try Gus’s Fried Chicken

    Have you tried Gus’s Fried Chicken? You’re probably going to want to try Gus’s Fried Chicken. Because it’s pretty remarkable stuff, even in chicken-obsessed Los Angeles: a burnished red-gold, pieces bigger than they are small, whose peppery heat at first seems mild, even nonexistent, until it starts...

  • Jonathan Gold finds Kettle Black's eccentric Italian illuminating. Try the octopus salad.

    Jonathan Gold finds Kettle Black's eccentric Italian illuminating. Try the octopus salad.

    How many Edison bulbs hang from the ceiling at Kettle Black? So many Edison bulbs. I got to the mid-70s the night I counted — there are more — but I got distracted by the 17-foot-high back bar, the weathered wood floor and the industrial-steel undercarriage of the stools. The restaurant occupies...

  • Jonathan Gold finds more fun with Japanese fried food at Tempura Endo

    Jonathan Gold finds more fun with Japanese fried food at Tempura Endo

    You’ve had tempura – that tangle of crisply fried vegetables that showed up in the bento the last time you had Japanese lunch or the fried shrimp that came with the teriyaki when you got the No. 2 combo meal. Perhaps you were lucky enough to try the tempura course at Komatsu in Torrance before...

  • Winsome takes Echo Park diner food beyond hipster brunch

    Winsome takes Echo Park diner food beyond hipster brunch

    Have you ever walked around Machu Picchu, the abandoned Inca fortress set high in the Andes? Because a trip to Winsome in Echo Park can feel like a modernist version of that, a hot, waterless stroll from the parking lot through the abandoned Department of Water and Power campus, shrouded in half-dead...

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