Jonathan Gold

The Best Restaurants

Aqui Es Texcoco's lamb barbacoa stars, other dishes shine too

The last time I went to Aqui Es Texcoco, the kitchen had run out of lamb. And while this might not have been a problem in most Mexican restaurants, where you'd shrug and move on to the roast pork or the mojarra, Aqui Es Texcoco is more or less a one-dish restaurant — that dish being...


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