Jonathan Gold

The Best Restaurants

 

Where to find Jonathan Gold's favorite cold noodle dishes

When the weather gets hot, the noodles get cold. And here are some of the coldest. Yu Chun — How cold is Yu Chun’s mool chic naengmyun? So cold that it gives you an ice cream headache. So cold that the tangy beef broth builds up in soft drifts in the middle of the bowl. So cold that the customary...

More Jonathan Gold

  • Kagura does a crisp business in the pork cutlet known as tonkatsu

    Kagura does a crisp business in the pork cutlet known as tonkatsu

    Los Angeles, I believe, has yet to reach Peak Ramen. New sushi bars seem to open each week. In some parts of town, you are rarely more than a few minutes' drive from a curry house, a Japanese spaghetti parlor or a plate of okonomiyaki. Yet occasionally it seems as if too little is said about tonkatsu,...

  • Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    If you've been to Tokyo, you know that finding a restaurant can be even harder than wrangling a reservation to one, even if you have an exact street address, even if you're with a friend who knows the neighborhood fairly well. Sometimes the best places are on the 12th floor of what looks like an...

  • The small plates at Moruno hold some big ideas

    The small plates at Moruno hold some big ideas

    Moruno, one might imagine, is a restaurant devoted to the pincho moruno, the miniature shish kebabs that you find almost everywhere in southern Spain. Chris Feldmeier, the chef, goes to Seville a lot, and pinchos moruno, marinated in olive oil, lemon juice and a cumin-heavy spice mixture pretty...

  • Officine Brera is so grand and serious that it's nearly operatic

    Officine Brera is so grand and serious that it's nearly operatic

    The most obscurely located new restaurant in town? It may be Officine Brera, tucked into the rear of a parking lot at the end of 6th Street at the end of what seems like the world's largest no-parking zone and located near a gun club a few steps from the stub of the demolished 6th Street Bridge....

  • Mian restaurant has noodles like no one else in the San Gabriel Valley

    Mian restaurant has noodles like no one else in the San Gabriel Valley

    You know zhajiangmian. It's that dish of springy wheat noodles, often hand-pulled, tossed with bean sauce, ground pork and usually some other stuff, that you may have tasted in Chinese noodle shops like Malan Noodles in Hacienda Heights and China Tasty in Alhambra. In Chinese-Korean noodle houses...

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