Jonathan Gold

The Best Restaurants

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  • Where to dine in Southern California if you love tasting menus

    Where to dine in Southern California if you love tasting menus

    You can call it a tasting menu. You can call it omakase. You can call it dégustation, a banquet menu or modern kaiseki. What it tends to be is a meal made up of dozens of small tastes, served in exquisite rhythm, where the courses, their order and their precise composition has been determined for...

  • The Tsujita brings its intense ramen bowls to Glendale

    The Tsujita brings its intense ramen bowls to Glendale

    Have you, by chance, tasted tonkotsu ramen? Because the Kyushu-style noodles may be at their peak in Los Angeles at the moment: thin, straight noodles served in a pork broth of maximum intensity. Tonkotsu ramen is often layered with slices of soft braised pork, garnished with simmered bamboo shoots...

  • Happy Chinese New Year: Restaurants for noodles, dumplings, chicken, fish and more

    Happy Chinese New Year: Restaurants for noodles, dumplings, chicken, fish and more

    Happy Chinese New Year! Red envelopes and lion dances for all! If you want to celebrate at a Chinese restaurant, and I can’t see why you wouldn’t, here are a few places to ring in the Year of the Rooster.   Ask Jonathan Goldbot where to eat on Facebook Messenger » Chengdu Taste The last time we...

  • Jonathan Gold: Gwen, a manly restaurant and butcher shop, simply screams 'steak'

    Jonathan Gold: Gwen, a manly restaurant and butcher shop, simply screams 'steak'

    On your way into Gwen, the Hollywood restaurant run by Curtis Stone and his brother, Luke, a former florist, you will probably spend a few seconds browsing the retail butcher’s counter, a display of Victorian lavishness — fat birds, richly marbled meats and intricate pâtés.  I am a fan of McCall’s...

  • 6 great restaurants for spicy food

    6 great restaurants for spicy food

    Spicy food is glorious stuff, particularly in times of duress, or when the weather is unreasonably chilly, or when you’ve misplaced that bottle of Double Chicken Brand Sriracha you still keep in your bag. So which restaurant to head for when the need for a dose of chiles calls? Here are a half-dozen...

  • Jonathan Gold goes on a holiday tamale crawl across L.A.

    Jonathan Gold goes on a holiday tamale crawl across L.A.

    I don’t think you can find them all on Google, but this is probably the 12th or 13th time I have been assigned to write a year-end tamale piece, and for almost all of them I have made the rounds of more or less the same Boyle Heights tamaleros before declaring once again that Juanito’s is definitively...

  • Jonathan Gold's 10 best dishes of 2016

    Jonathan Gold's 10 best dishes of 2016

    2016, by all accounts, was a year from which we will not soon recover; a year when the social-media obsessives among us were reduced to peeking at Twitter feeds between their fingers. But the food wasn’t bad – the year saw the rise of Filipino cooking, a wave of woman chefs and the resurgence of...

  • Jonathan Gold didn't expect a Nick Erven vegan restaurant, but it might be L.A.'s best vegan dining

    Jonathan Gold didn't expect a Nick Erven vegan restaurant, but it might be L.A.'s best vegan dining

    When you walk into Erven, Nick Erven’s newish restaurant in Santa Monica, you may not immediately place it as vegan. There’s a kind of deli counter up front selling salads and sandwiches to go, and the guy at the host station may hand you a shot glass of sangria as a gesture of goodwill. The smell...

  • Jonathan Gold finds strong flavors and a splendid bar at Here’s Looking at You in Koreatown

    Jonathan Gold finds strong flavors and a splendid bar at Here’s Looking at You in Koreatown

    In a Times op-ed a few weeks ago, the architect Thom Mayne suggested Koreatown as a candidate for future hyperdensity, doubling the population of what is already the most densely populated neighborhood in Los Angeles. If you have ever tried to find a parking spot anywhere around dinner hour, you...

  • Where Jonathan Gold goes for spicy comfort food in Koreatown

    Where Jonathan Gold goes for spicy comfort food in Koreatown

    Sun Nong Dan is a specialist in sullungtang, a gentle broth made by boiling beef bones for hours, even days, until the liquid turns a shimmering, pearlescent white that is pretty much the opposite of what French chefs are taught in cooking school. The soup is fatless and softly fragrant, not quite...

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