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Jonathan Gold

The Best Restaurants

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  • At Leona, the roast dumpling squash makes a statement

    At Leona, the roast dumpling squash makes a statement

    It is clear we have entered the age of the roasted vegetable, a glorious epoch when a stalwart carrot or celery root, warmed in dying embers, can take the place on a plate formerly ceded to a game hen or a slab of richly marbled beef. If you have tasted Nancy Silverton's wood-blasted eggplant at...

  • Jonathan Gold's Los Angeles: Shrimp & Grits

    Jonathan Gold's Los Angeles: Shrimp & Grits

    Govind Armstrong.  A low-country classic.  Chef Govind Armstrong’s version at Willie Jane is restrained, vegetable-forward and delicious.

  • At Viviane in the Avalon Hotel, Michael Hung's French cooking is clean and soft

    At Viviane in the Avalon Hotel, Michael Hung's French cooking is clean and soft

    If you are tangentially involved in the entertainment industry, you have probably spent your share of afternoons at the Avalon Hotel, stopping by for an egg-white frittata with a visiting screenwriter friend, horning in on a buddy's lunch with his book publicist, or having a drink with an agent...

  • Andy Ricker's Pok Pok brings a genuine taste of Thailand to L.A.

    Andy Ricker's Pok Pok brings a genuine taste of Thailand to L.A.

    Is it possible to become converted in a single bite? Because with a single fried chicken wing at the original Portland Pok Pok in 2007, I dropped my prejudices about non-European cooking in Oregon, the crossover potential of extreme Asian funk, and the ability of a non-Thai to prepare anything...

  • A mole tamale Oaxacan Christmas feast

    A mole tamale Oaxacan Christmas feast

    How do you know it's Christmas at Bricia Lopez's house? There's a big Christmas tree in one corner of the art-filled hillside bungalow; a baby bobs in his bouncy chair. Bricia, her sisters Elizabeth Lopez and Paulina Lopez Velasquez, and her mother, Maria de Jesus, wear coordinated Oaxacan aprons...

  • Jonathan Gold's 101 Best Restaurants, 2015: The top 20

    Jonathan Gold's 101 Best Restaurants, 2015: The top 20

    After much anticipation and maybe even more very real hunger, Jonathan Gold’s new 101 list is finally here. The third edition of his 101 Best Restaurants is now available online for subscribers — and the print edition will be out on Saturday. Here are his top 20: 1. Providence Read more Jay L....

  • At Colonia Publica, come home to a warm bowl of fideo

    Review: At Colonia Publica, come home to a warm bowl of fideo

    If you time it right, maybe on a Saturday afternoon, you may be lucky enough to run into an art fair or a car show or a Halloween festival in Uptown Whittier when Greenleaf Avenue is roped off, gleaming custom cars line the side streets and music, mostly oldies, booms from almost everywhere that...

  • Jonathan Gold review: Curtis Stone's Maude in Beverly Hills

    Jonathan Gold review: Curtis Stone's Maude in Beverly Hills

    Maude is a narrow shoe box of a restaurant hidden amid the chain steakhouses and salad parlors of South Beverly Drive. Its only sign is a discreet metal door handle in the shape of the letter M. Its small dining room, half finished with white subway tile, is a curious assemblage: sweet piles of...

  • Head to Broken Spanish in DTLA for an ambitious, modernist take on Mexican food

    Head to Broken Spanish in DTLA for an ambitious, modernist take on Mexican food

    How is Broken Spanish? Your opinion of the place, a modernist Mexican restaurant a few steps from Staples Center, is probably going to depend on what you think about the idea of chopped snout in your sweet potato. If you are of a certain adventurous bent, you may say to yourself, "Why not?" And,...

  • Bring your wallet and your patience for dinner at Gary Menes' Le Comptoir in Koreatown

    Bring your wallet and your patience for dinner at Gary Menes' Le Comptoir in Koreatown

    When you walk down 6th Street in Koreatown about a quarter to nine some night, perhaps on your way to an early cocktail at the Walker Inn or a late cheeseburger at Cassell's, you are likely to run across an odd scrum of people lining the sidewalk outside the Hotel Normandie, not quite all of whom...

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