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Framed, Chapter 3: Secret lovers, legal maneuvering and a fictional blueprint for 'the perfect crime'

Jonathan Gold

The Best Restaurants

 

Winsome takes Echo Park diner food beyond hipster brunch

Have you ever walked around Machu Picchu, the abandoned Inca fortress set high in the Andes? Because a trip to Winsome in Echo Park can feel like a modernist version of that, a hot, waterless stroll from the parking lot through the abandoned Department of Water and Power campus, shrouded in half-dead...

More Jonathan Gold

  • Where to find Jonathan Gold's favorite cold noodle dishes

    Where to find Jonathan Gold's favorite cold noodle dishes

    When the weather gets hot, the noodles get cold. And here are some of the coldest. Yu Chun — How cold is Yu Chun’s mool chic naengmyun? So cold that it gives you an ice cream headache. So cold that the tangy beef broth builds up in soft drifts in the middle of the bowl. So cold that the customary...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews Lasa, a temporary Filipino restaurant with long-range ambitions

    Jonathan Gold reviews Lasa, a temporary Filipino restaurant with long-range ambitions

    We are here once again at the Far East Plaza, the modest Chinatown mall that is home to the recently reviewed Howlin’ Ray’s, Pok Pok Phat Thai and Chego, among other players in the current food movement. We are in Unit 120, the self-described restaurant incubator space, run by Alvin Cailan, whom...

  • At Frogtown's Salazar, Jonathan Gold finds a Sonora barbecue joint, steakhouse and evolving tortillas

    At Frogtown's Salazar, Jonathan Gold finds a Sonora barbecue joint, steakhouse and evolving tortillas

    The story of Salazar begins with a tortilla. Or at least I think it begins with a tortilla, because it might also begin with an old auto body shop tricked out into a restaurant, a grill that creaked into being when a gas line couldn’t quite be permitted, or a laissez-faire outdoor arrangement of...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews Kali Restaurant: It's too much of a good thing

    Jonathan Gold reviews Kali Restaurant: It's too much of a good thing

    When you walk into Kali, maybe at the end of a short stroll from the Paramount lot down the street, one of the first things you see, perhaps even before you have registered the dining counter or the kitchen, is the giant grinning pig’s head behind glass. It’s not the only thing in that refrigerator,...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's Hot Chicken

    Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's Hot Chicken

    What happens when you take your first bite of Nashville hot chicken, say the Howlin’ Hot fried chicken at Chinatown’s Howlin’ Ray’s?  You burn your fingers for one thing — the bird is just out of the fryer, and you’ll probably want to tear the quarter-chicken in half for easy eating — as a good...

  • Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    If you've been to Tokyo, you know that finding a restaurant can be even harder than wrangling a reservation to one, even if you have an exact street address, even if you're with a friend who knows the neighborhood fairly well. Sometimes the best places are on the 12th floor of what looks like an...

  • The small plates at Moruno hold some big ideas

    The small plates at Moruno hold some big ideas

    Moruno, one might imagine, is a restaurant devoted to the pincho moruno, the miniature shish kebabs that you find almost everywhere in southern Spain. Chris Feldmeier, the chef, goes to Seville a lot, and pinchos moruno, marinated in olive oil, lemon juice and a cumin-heavy spice mixture pretty...

  • Officine Brera is so grand and serious that it's nearly operatic

    Officine Brera is so grand and serious that it's nearly operatic

    The most obscurely located new restaurant in town? It may be Officine Brera, tucked into the rear of a parking lot at the end of 6th Street at the end of what seems like the world's largest no-parking zone and located near a gun club a few steps from the stub of the demolished 6th Street Bridge....

  • Mian restaurant has noodles like no one else in the San Gabriel Valley

    Mian restaurant has noodles like no one else in the San Gabriel Valley

    You know zhajiangmian. It's that dish of springy wheat noodles, often hand-pulled, tossed with bean sauce, ground pork and usually some other stuff, that you may have tasted in Chinese noodle shops like Malan Noodles in Hacienda Heights and China Tasty in Alhambra. In Chinese-Korean noodle houses...

  • In Venice Beach, the place to eat is Dudley Market, and the dish to try is uni-topped black risotto

    In Venice Beach, the place to eat is Dudley Market, and the dish to try is uni-topped black risotto

    If you were going to design a restaurant representing the new Venice Beach, the one where postmodern mansions crowd next to crumbling apartment blocks, and the narrow alleys sometimes resemble the streets near the Rialto, you might well come up with something like Dudley Market, a sleek, minimal...

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