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Jonathan Gold

The Best Restaurants

More Jonathan Gold

  • Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    Shawn Pham's Simbal is what you might call a Vietnamese izakaya

    If you've been to Tokyo, you know that finding a restaurant can be even harder than wrangling a reservation to one, even if you have an exact street address, even if you're with a friend who knows the neighborhood fairly well. Sometimes the best places are on the 12th floor of what looks like an...

  • The small plates at Moruno hold some big ideas

    The small plates at Moruno hold some big ideas

    Moruno, one might imagine, is a restaurant devoted to the pincho moruno, the miniature shish kebabs that you find almost everywhere in southern Spain. Chris Feldmeier, the chef, goes to Seville a lot, and pinchos moruno, marinated in olive oil, lemon juice and a cumin-heavy spice mixture pretty...

  • Officine Brera is so grand and serious that it's nearly operatic

    Officine Brera is so grand and serious that it's nearly operatic

    The most obscurely located new restaurant in town? It may be Officine Brera, tucked into the rear of a parking lot at the end of 6th Street at the end of what seems like the world's largest no-parking zone and located near a gun club a few steps from the stub of the demolished 6th Street Bridge....

  • Mian restaurant has noodles like no one else in the San Gabriel Valley

    Mian restaurant has noodles like no one else in the San Gabriel Valley

    You know zhajiangmian. It's that dish of springy wheat noodles, often hand-pulled, tossed with bean sauce, ground pork and usually some other stuff, that you may have tasted in Chinese noodle shops like Malan Noodles in Hacienda Heights and China Tasty in Alhambra. In Chinese-Korean noodle houses...

  • In Venice Beach, the place to eat is Dudley Market, and the dish to try is uni-topped black risotto

    In Venice Beach, the place to eat is Dudley Market, and the dish to try is uni-topped black risotto

    If you were going to design a restaurant representing the new Venice Beach, the one where postmodern mansions crowd next to crumbling apartment blocks, and the narrow alleys sometimes resemble the streets near the Rialto, you might well come up with something like Dudley Market, a sleek, minimal...

  • At Viviane in the Avalon Hotel, Michael Hung's French cooking is clean and soft

    At Viviane in the Avalon Hotel, Michael Hung's French cooking is clean and soft

    If you are tangentially involved in the entertainment industry, you have probably spent your share of afternoons at the Avalon Hotel, stopping by for an egg-white frittata with a visiting screenwriter friend, horning in on a buddy's lunch with his book publicist, or having a drink with an agent...

  • Andy Ricker's Pok Pok brings a genuine taste of Thailand to L.A.

    Andy Ricker's Pok Pok brings a genuine taste of Thailand to L.A.

    Is it possible to become converted in a single bite? Because with a single fried chicken wing at the original Portland Pok Pok in 2007, I dropped my prejudices about non-European cooking in Oregon, the crossover potential of extreme Asian funk, and the ability of a non-Thai to prepare anything...

  • A mole tamale Oaxacan Christmas feast

    A mole tamale Oaxacan Christmas feast

    How do you know it's Christmas at Bricia Lopez's house? There's a big Christmas tree in one corner of the art-filled hillside bungalow; a baby bobs in his bouncy chair. Bricia, her sisters Elizabeth Lopez and Paulina Lopez Velasquez, and her mother, Maria de Jesus, wear coordinated Oaxacan aprons...

  • Jonathan Gold: Five of the tastiest Chinese restaurants in the SGV with the name 'Tasty'

    Jonathan Gold: Five of the tastiest Chinese restaurants in the SGV with the name 'Tasty'

    In last week’s column, I alluded to the flood of San Gabriel Valley Chinese restaurants  with the word "Tasty’" tucked somewhere into their English-language names. Depending on whether you count doughnut shops, burger stands or branches of the same restaurant as Tasty, Not-Tasty or Tasty in their...

  • Jonathan Gold's 10 best dishes of 2015

    Jonathan Gold's 10 best dishes of 2015

    A decade or two from now, when line-caught sea bass will seem as rare and unobtainable as sturgeon caviar is now, drive-through windows sell more lentil bowls than cheeseburgers and we have gotten used to the idea of Taylor Swift as the governor of Pennsylvania, 2015 may well seem in retrospect...

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