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  • At 71Above, the view of L.A. is even prettier than the food

    At 71Above, the view of L.A. is even prettier than the food

    This review, I’m guessing, is going to start with a parsnip, a fat, late-winter example of the pale root vegetable that Vartan Abgaryan has cooked, glazed with duck fat, and buried under a heap of flowers at his restaurant 71Above. What looks like powdered sugar is crumbly powdered duck fat, made...

  • First Impression: China Taste, maybe the San Gabriel Valley’s first Anhui-style restaurant

    First Impression: China Taste, maybe the San Gabriel Valley’s first Anhui-style restaurant

    When you read about Chinese cooking, you will sooner or later come across a reference to the Eight Great Cuisines, the traditional regions that are supposed to define all that is best about Chinese food. And if you’ve spent a certain amount of time eating in the San Gabriel Valley, you will have...

  • Jonathan Gold reviews Kobee Factory & Syrian Kitchen in Van Nuys

    Jonathan Gold reviews Kobee Factory & Syrian Kitchen in Van Nuys

    Is it possible to become obsessed with a dish as simple as mjadara? Because mjadara, an Arab dish of bulgur wheat cooked with lentils, isn’t much to look at: a murky, slightly ominous mush, its color lingering in that zone between tan and battleship gray, with a texture usually stiff enough to...

  • Where to dine in Southern California if you love tasting menus

    Where to dine in Southern California if you love tasting menus

    You can call it a tasting menu. You can call it omakase. You can call it dégustation, a banquet menu or modern kaiseki. What it tends to be is a meal made up of dozens of small tastes, served in exquisite rhythm, where the courses, their order and their precise composition has been determined for...

  • The Tsujita brings its intense ramen bowls to Glendale

    The Tsujita brings its intense ramen bowls to Glendale

    Have you, by chance, tasted tonkotsu ramen? Because the Kyushu-style noodles may be at their peak in Los Angeles at the moment: thin, straight noodles served in a pork broth of maximum intensity. Tonkotsu ramen is often layered with slices of soft braised pork, garnished with simmered bamboo shoots...

  • The restaurant is called Legendary. But is it? Jonathan Gold sits down for showstopping Sichuan

    The restaurant is called Legendary. But is it? Jonathan Gold sits down for showstopping Sichuan

    Are you going to order the garlic shredded pork the first time you visit the Legendary Restaurant? You are probably going to order the garlic shredded pork. You may be expecting a stir-fry, but what is brought to the table looks like a tie rack you might find in a Hammacher Schlemmer catalog tucked...

  • At the Southern-style Hatchet Hall, Jonathan Gold finds good times, then takes home great leftovers

    At the Southern-style Hatchet Hall, Jonathan Gold finds good times, then takes home great leftovers

    The morning after my last meal at Hatchet Hall, I cooked steak hash with the remnants of the big rib-eye. I seared the soft, gingerbread-scented chunks of winter squash in a bit of olive oil. I let the slices of grilled sweet onion, zapped with garlic and anchovy, come to room temperature. And almost...

  • Now you can ask food critic Jonathan Gold for advice anytime

    Now you can ask food critic Jonathan Gold for advice anytime

    The self-proclaimed “belly of Los Angeles” has passed on his encyclopedic knowledge of the best food in L.A. to his chatbot twin: Goldbot. Yes, you heard that right. You can now talk to acclaimed food critic Jonathan Gold any time you want — or at least the robot version of him that now lives on...

  • Jonathan Gold goes on a holiday tamale crawl across L.A.

    Jonathan Gold goes on a holiday tamale crawl across L.A.

    I don’t think you can find them all on Google, but this is probably the 12th or 13th time I have been assigned to write a year-end tamale piece, and for almost all of them I have made the rounds of more or less the same Boyle Heights tamaleros before declaring once again that Juanito’s is definitively...

  • Jonathan Gold's 10 best dishes of 2016

    Jonathan Gold's 10 best dishes of 2016

    2016, by all accounts, was a year from which we will not soon recover; a year when the social-media obsessives among us were reduced to peeking at Twitter feeds between their fingers. But the food wasn’t bad – the year saw the rise of Filipino cooking, a wave of woman chefs and the resurgence of...

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