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Jonathan Gold

The Best Restaurants

 

At 71Above, the view of L.A. is even prettier than the food

This review, I’m guessing, is going to start with a parsnip, a fat, late-winter example of the pale root vegetable that Vartan Abgaryan has cooked, glazed with duck fat, and buried under a heap of flowers at his restaurant 71Above. What looks like powdered sugar is crumbly powdered duck fat, made...

More Jonathan Gold

  • The Tsujita brings its intense ramen bowls to Glendale

    The Tsujita brings its intense ramen bowls to Glendale

    Have you, by chance, tasted tonkotsu ramen? Because the Kyushu-style noodles may be at their peak in Los Angeles at the moment: thin, straight noodles served in a pork broth of maximum intensity. Tonkotsu ramen is often layered with slices of soft braised pork, garnished with simmered bamboo shoots...

  • Happy Chinese New Year: Restaurants for noodles, dumplings, chicken, fish and more

    Happy Chinese New Year: Restaurants for noodles, dumplings, chicken, fish and more

    Happy Chinese New Year! Red envelopes and lion dances for all! If you want to celebrate at a Chinese restaurant, and I can’t see why you wouldn’t, here are a few places to ring in the Year of the Rooster.   Ask Jonathan Goldbot where to eat on Facebook Messenger » Chengdu Taste The last time we...

  • Jonathan Gold: Gwen, a manly restaurant and butcher shop, simply screams 'steak'

    Jonathan Gold: Gwen, a manly restaurant and butcher shop, simply screams 'steak'

    On your way into Gwen, the Hollywood restaurant run by Curtis Stone and his brother, Luke, a former florist, you will probably spend a few seconds browsing the retail butcher’s counter, a display of Victorian lavishness — fat birds, richly marbled meats and intricate pâtés.  I am a fan of McCall’s...

  • 6 great restaurants for spicy food

    6 great restaurants for spicy food

    Spicy food is glorious stuff, particularly in times of duress, or when the weather is unreasonably chilly, or when you’ve misplaced that bottle of Double Chicken Brand Sriracha you still keep in your bag. So which restaurant to head for when the need for a dose of chiles calls? Here are a half-dozen...

  • After NYT pans Locol, Jonathan Gold wonders if some restaurants are unreviewable

    After NYT pans Locol, Jonathan Gold wonders if some restaurants are unreviewable

    If you’ve been paying attention to food media this last week, you’ve probably heard a lot about Pete Wells’ zero-star review of Locol in the New York Times last Wednesday, in which he compared the hamburger to something he’d once eaten at Boy Scout camp. The review was of the Oakland location,...

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