Carlitos Gardel on Melrose

The dish noquis de ricotta comes served with espinaca insalata blanca y de tomate.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Ojo de costilla con chimichurri (a 14-ounce rib-eye) as served by the Bozoghlian family, who own and operate the Argentine steakhouse.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Max Bozoghlian, left, mother Azniv Bozoghlian, father Carlos Bozoghlian and Gerardo Bozoghlian in the dining room of their restaurant.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The parrillada Argentina is a mixed grill that’s served for two but is ample for three, or even four.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The papas fritas Provenzal are listed as an appetizer, but wait and order them with the main course.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The dish cordero is New Zealand lamb.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

A favorite is matambre de pollo, boned chicken rolled up around a filling of hard-boiled eggs, ham and cheese, served with a creamy insalata russa.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

The restaurant is named for Carlitos Gardel, the famous tango singer who died in a plane crash in the 1930s. His photo hangs on the wall of the dining room.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)

Azniv Bozoghlian’s signature dessert is the postre Gardel, genoise layered with peaches, dulce de leche and meringue.  (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)