Pizzeria Ortica‘s executive chef Steve Samson, formerly of Valentino, is cooking accessible and gutsy Italian food at his and David Myers’ new restaurant in Costa Mesa. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
Pappardelle with zigzag edges are tossed in a delicious lamb ragu. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
The classic pizza Margherita is on the menu. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
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The pollo al mattone is a jidori chicken breast and thigh cooked under a brick. Its crispy and juicy and served with sumptuous strips of roasted sweet red peppers. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
The pasta is some of the best in Southern California. Shown is ravioli di burrata. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
The sardines en saor are fried and then steeped in vinegar with raisins and pine nuts. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
A long, narrow dining room and bar coupled with high-vaulted ceilings calls to mind Bolognas city center. (Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
