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Beer of the Month: Samuel Adams Brewing Verloren

Samuel Adams Brewing Verloren

"Verloren" means "lost" in German, and this beer certainly deserves the name. It's in a style called Gose (GOH-zuh), which was originally made with water from the tiny Gose River in Saxony. At one time, this was the typical beer of Leipzig, but in the last century it almost died out several times. Since Americans have never heard of it, it goes without saying that this is a limited release.

So what is it? A wheat ale flavored with coriander and salt. Yes, salt, which stands in for hops as the main foil for the beer's maltiness.

It pours medium amber with a yellowish head. The nose is fruity and malty with a faint coriander note and scarcely any detectable hops. On the palate, it's utterly distinctive: sweet-sour, as if there were some lemon juice in it, with a brusque little mineral twist. The finish is long and fairly dry with a rather subtle bitterness, giving a sophisticated effect. The sharpness means it would go well with fried fish or white meats in cream sauce.

Quick Sip

Style: Sweet-sour and (slightly) salty, the closest beer ever comes to a margarita

Price: $6 for a 22-ounce bottle

Where to Find It: At BevMo (www.bevmo.com) and Total Wine (www.totalwine.com)

food@latimes.com

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