When I was in college, breakfast of toasted bagel, cream cheese and lox eaten with the Sunday paper spread all over the table seemed like a wonderful luxury. Later I discovered the nuances of gum-free cream cheese and the bialys and Nova from Russ & Daughters and Barney Greengrass in New York. (Barney Greengrass has an outpost on the top floor of
The French caviar house founded in 1920 has been supplying top-grade caviar and smoked salmon to Los Angeles for some 20 years from its cafe and shop in West Hollywood. Chef Giselle Wellman (ex-
321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 271-6300, http://www.petrossian.com. Bagel with smoked salmon, $20, with smoked salmon and caviar, $28.
Hurry over to Spago for one last smoked salmon pizza before
176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 385-0880; http://www.wolfgangpuck.com. Smoked salmon pizza, $24.
At Huckleberry in Santa Monica, the line snakes out the door for pastry chef Zoe Nathan's cinnamon rolls, Valrhona chocolate croissants and tea cake. You'd think people had never seen a muffin or a coffeecake before. But the breakfast menu at this sweet, modest cafe also includes a stellar house-smoked salmon platter, with all the fixings, including sliced red onions, cream cheese, capers, cucumbers — and the surprise of arugula. No bagels, though, but the platter includes thick slabs of toasted house-baked bread.
1014 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 451-1322, http://www.huckleberrycafe.com. Smoked salmon platter, $14.50.