Scallops with shiso ravigote. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
Japanese egg custard chawan mushi flavored with sunchokes, celtuce and smoky wild mushrooms. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
Uni rice, made with satsuki rice with geoduck chowder. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
Chef and owner Josef Centeno, right, preps before dinner. Centeno’s menu focuses on small plates, multicultural influences and sourced produce. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
Centeno is also the owner of nearby Bäco Mercat and Bar Amá. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
Orsa & Winston, on 4th Street in downtown L.A., on a rainy evening. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
The dining experience at Orsa & Winston centers on the tasting menu, five or eight small courses that change daily. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
Wine chills on a counter. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
Decor in a dim corner of the restaurant. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
