Orsa & Winston in downtown Los Angeles

Scallops with shiso ravigote.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Japanese egg custard chawan mushi flavored with sunchokes, celtuce and smoky wild mushrooms.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Uni rice, made with satsuki rice with geoduck chowder.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Chef and owner Josef Centeno, right, preps before dinner. Centeno’s menu focuses on small plates, multicultural influences and sourced produce.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Centeno is also the owner of nearby Bäco Mercat and Bar Amá.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Orsa & Winston, on 4th Street in downtown L.A., on a rainy evening.   (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

The dining experience at Orsa & Winston centers on the tasting menu, five or eight small courses that change daily.   (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Wine chills on a counter.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Decor in a dim corner of the restaurant.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)